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CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
AND HOW TO GROW THEM 



THE GARDEN LIBRARY 

Roses, and How to Grow Them 

By Many Experts 

Ferns, and How to Grow Them* 

By G. A. Woolson 

Lawns, and How to Make Them 

By Leonard Barron 

Daffodils-Narcissus, and How to Grow Them 
By A. M. Kirby 

Water-Lilies and How to Grow Them 

By Henri Hus and Henry S. Conard 

House Plants 

By Parker Thayer Barnes 

The Orchard and Fruit Garden 

By E. P. Powell 

The Flower Garden 

By Ida D. Bennett 

The Vegetable Garden 

By Ida D. Bennett 

Vines, and How to Grow Them 

By William McCollom 

Garden Planning 

By W. S. Rogers 

Chrysanthemums, and How to Grow Them 
By I. L. Powell 



Plate 1 



r^ 




THE CHRYSANTHEMUM IS INDEED A GARDEN FLOWER 

The greatest rewards and successes, in terms of results and true enjoyment 
with the least expense and trouble, are often achieved by the amateur who 
grows the hardy, many-flowered garden varieties 



Chrysanthemums 

And How to Grow Them 



As Garden Plants for Outdoor Bloom 
and for Cut Flowers Under Glass 



BY 

I. L. POWELL 



ILLUSTRATED 




Garden City New York 

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 

1911 



q,^c 






ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION 
INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN 



COPYRIGHT, igil, BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 



©aA:^ 1)2555 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 



I. 


Points for the Beginner • . • • 




II. 


Growing Under Glass 




III. 


Preparing the Soil and Propagation 




IV. 


Bush Plants and Standards . . . 




V. 


The Science and Practice of Feeding 




VI. 


Growing Exhibition Blooms . . . 




VII. 


Growing for Commercial Purposes 




VIII. 


Production of New Varieties . . . 




IX. 


Insects, Diseases, and Remedies . . 




X. 


Growine in the South . . . . . 




XL 


^ta^XV^TTXXA^ AAA %0AA\0 h^V^hAWAA • « • • 4 

The Pompon Chrysanthemum . . 




XII. 


Cultural Hints Month by Month . 




XIII. 


Types and Varieties ...... 




Index 







3 

17 
25 
43 
64 
77 
112 

134 
146 
161 

165 
173 
179 
197 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



PLAIE 



I. The Chrysanthemum is Indeed a 
Garden Flower {Henry Troth) 

Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE 

II. Buds and Disbudding — I {H. G. 

Taylor) 6 

III. Buds and Disbudding — II {H. G. 

Taylor) 7 

IV. A Hardy Chrysanthemum Border 

{Nathan R. Graves) .... lo 
V. The Artistic Appeal {Nathan R. 

Graves) ii 

VI. A House for Chrysanthemums and 

Carnations {J. G. Eldredge) . . i8 
VII. Prize Exhibition Blooms in the Bench 

{Nathan R. Graves) .... 19 
VIII. Root Cuttings — I {Nathan R. 

Graves) 3° 

IX. Root Cuttings — II {Nathan R. 

Graves and Leonard Barron) . . 31 
X. Root Cuttings — III {Nathan R. 

Graves and Leonard Barron) ... 50 
XI. Fall Protection for Half-Hardy Sorts 

{H. G. Taylor) 51 

XII. A Championship Specimen Bush 

Plant {Herbert E. Angell) . . 62 



ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued 



PLATE FACING PAGE 

XIII. A Prize Winning Standard {Nathan 

R. Graves) 63 

XIV. Taking the Bud — I {Leonard 

Barron) 66 

XV. Taking the Bud — II {Leonard 

Barron) 67 

XVI. The Growth of the Buds {Leonard 

Barron) 78 

XVII. Blooms from Crown and Terminal 

Buds {Leonard Barron) ... 79 
XVIII. Supporting Plants on Strings {Nathan 

R, Graves) 82 

XIX. Supporting Plants on Stakes {Nathan 

R. Graves) 83 

XX. Exhibiting Prize Blooms {A. R. 

Dugmore) 94 

XXI. Black Aphis on the Chrysanthemum 

{Leonard Barron) 95 

XXII. The Chrysanthemum in Interior 

Decoration {Henry Troth) . . 112 

XXIII. A Bush Anemone {Nathan R. 

Graves) "3 

XXIV. Potted Plants Growing Outdoors 

(/. N. Gerard) 128 

XXV. Some Garden Possibilities {Allen 

French and Herbert E. Angell . . 129 
XXVI. Two of the Many-flowered Pompons 

{Nathan R. Graves) .... 146 
XXVII. The Pompon and Anemone Types 

{A. R. Dugmore and N. R. Graves) 147 
XXVIII. Hardy Anemones {Brugh 

Werner) 158 



ILLUSTRATIONS — Continued 

PLATE tACnXG PAGE 

XXIX. Protecting and Shading Plants (/. N, 

Gerard) 159 

XXX. The Reflexed and Incurved Types 

{H. E. Angell and N. R. Graves) . 180 

XXXI. Two Blooms of the Japanese Type 

(H. E. Angell and N, R. Graves) , 181 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
AND HOW TO GROW THEM 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

CHAPTER I 
Points for the Beginner 

Obtaining information and planning the work — Care of stock 
plants — Simplest methods of growing — An amateur's experience 

Naturally the very first question that 
the would-be grower of chrysanthemums 
asks himself is: "When shall I begin?" 
Begin right now, whether "now" happens 
to be June or January. While certain parts 
of the year are, of course, more favourable 
than others for doing practical work in con- 
nection with the growing of chrysanthe- 
mums, there is no time when something 
may not be done toward making a start. 

The commencement of the expert chrys- 
anthemum grower's year is about the first 
of October. It is then that he begins to 
see the results of his past year's work, and, 
in consequence, is able to set about intelli- 

3 



4 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

gently making plans and preparations for 
the ensuing year. It will be well to watch 
this expert, and, so far as possible, adopt 
his methods. His note-book will be a 
prominent factor in his operations at all 
times, and particularly so at the beginning 
of the chrysanthemum year. As his flowers 
come along he jots down the date of full 
development, the condition and appearance 
of blooms from the different kinds of buds, 
and whether colour, form, and general 
character are desirable. He decides which 
varieties and how many of each he will 
grow, and selects the healthiest plants that 
have produced the best blooms for ** stock" 
plants for propagating purposes. As soon 
as the blooms are cut he has these stock 
plants stored in some cool, light, and well- 
ventilated place, convenient for watering. 
A sheltered and well-protected coldframe, 
he finds a most excellent place for storing 
stock plants from which cuttings are not 
to be taken before February ist. When 
cuttings are required as early as January 
1st he places them in a greenhouse where 
a temperature of 45 to 60 degrees Fahr. 
can be maintained. Meanwhile the expert 



POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 5 

grower will have visited some of the promi- 
nent chrysanthemum exhibitions, noting what 
new varieties appear to be improvements, 
also which of the older varieties are shown 
in good condition. He will probably also 
visit other experts at their places of business 
and endeavour, in a fair and friendly way, 
to learn what new or improved varieties, 
or methods of cultivation, they may have. 
Labelling will be observed, and all names 
that are doubtful verified or corrected. 
Memoranda will be made of all desirable 
varieties that he sees and lacks, and such 
varieties will be procured at the proper 
time. 

SIMPLEST METHOD 

Having got these necessary preparations 
of the expert clearly in his mind, the 
beginner must consider the structure in 
which he is to grow his plants, and the 
method of culture that he desires to adopt; 
for of the various methods there is sure to 
be one that can be made available for his 
needs and convenience. The easiest and 
simplest method is, of course, that of grow- 
ing the plants out of doors with but little, 



b CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

if any, protection. For this purpose the 
small-flowered, hardy varieties known as 
"pompons" generally, and in some sections 
of the country as " artemisias," are used. 
Apart from the fact that they are the 
cheapest and most easily grown of all the 
difl'erent types, they are so very desirable 
for decorative garden effects that they 
are used extensively on the large country 
estates. They are deservedly popular, for 
they give a display of bright and pleasing 
colour when practically every other out- 
door flower has been destroyed by frost. 
While protection is not necessary for them 
at any time, the season of bloom will 
be lengthened by having them planted 
where a building or trees will form a wind- 
break. 

The next simplest method is to plant 
some of the early varieties of the large- 
flowered type out of doors in a well-sheltered 
position, and then drive strong stakes in 
the ground about them to support some 
protecting material — burlap, matting, can- 
vas, muslin, heavy building paper, or any 
old covering that is available. Or, better 
still, but a little more expensive, arrange 




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POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 7 

a rough frame about them and put a few 
sash of glass over them during cold weather. 

AN amateur's experience 

As illustrative of what may be done with 
such outdoor treatment of early varieties, 
the experience of one amateur, told in his 
own words, is uncommonly interesting: 

"Great was my satisfaction in demon- 
strating that the early varieties of the 
large-flowered type of chrysanthemums could 
be successfully grown out of doors. I 
prefer to have my plants in the open border, 
where they lend their beauty to the general 
scheme of the garden. I have no greenhouse 
and I do not want one. 

"Planting out is done the latter half of 
April, either from division of the old roots 
that have been wintered outdoors, or from 
new plants that I buy from the florists, 
as I try a few novelties each year. 

"Division of the old plants and roots 
and replanting each spring are a necessary 
detail if you want flowers of size and quality. 
Plants that have wintered in the open 
ground are dug up as soon as they have made 
new growth of two or three inches. They 



8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

are carefully broken into separate pieces, 
taking some roots with each sprout, if possi- 
ble. I find that this gives the plant an 
earlier start, which makes it much stronger. 

"As chrysanthemums are what gardeners 
call 'gross feeders,' the ground is made very 
rich by spading in an abundance of old 
manure. The bed in which they are planted 
is raised slightly above the general level of 
the garden, to secure good drainage, and all 
through the season I am careful to keep plenty 
of free space around the plants, so that they 
are open to both light and air, which results 
in a healthy, sturdy growth, that counts 
for much when the flowering time comes. 

"If I want to grow the plants to a single 
bloom, one foot apart is ample space to allow 
when planting. If they are to be allowed to 
make four or five stems they will need at 
least eighteen inches. If the plants are to be 
pinched back several times, allow two feet 
each way, to allow them to make large plants. 

THE ART OF DISBUDDING 

"To grow large flowers in my back yard 
I must follow the methods of the professional 
florists so far as disbudding and staking the 



POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 9 

plants is concerned. It means considerable 
work and close attention all the season, 
but when October comes, and the plants 
are in bloom, I feel that I am well repaid. 
"The largest flowers are grown on plants 
that are allowed to develop but one stem, 
and only one bud on that stem. All side 
shoots are removed as soon as they appear, 
in order to throw the entire strength into 
the one flower. The art of chrysanthemum 
growing centres in a knowledge of the 
different flower buds and their qualities. A 
reference to the accompanying illustrations 
will make this plainer. The plant produces 
two kinds of buds, * crown' and 'terminal.' 
The crown is a solitary bud, and the first 
to appear, forming on the top of the stem 
before the branches start (Plate II, Figs. 4 
and 6). Terminal buds come in clusters at 
the ends of the final branches which the 
plant sends out, and terminate the season's 
growth (Plates II and III, Figs, i, 2, and 10). 

CROWN BUDS FOR LARGEST FLOWERS 

"When growing for an individual flower of 
the largest size, a crown bud is generally 
selected, and all side shoots are nipped off 



lO CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

as they start (Plate III, Fig. 6). The first 
crown bud, although capable of producing an 
immense flower, is often deficient in colour- 
ing matter, and otherwise lacking in the 
essentials of a perfect flower. Therefore 
what is called the 'second crown' is generally- 
chosen as being more certain to give satis- 
faction. It requires expert knowledge to 
decide on the propriety of using the first 
crown, but for the amateur it is much better 
to rely on the second. 

"This is obtained by pinching out the 
tip of the stem (Plate II, Fig. 5-A) in June, 
or when the stem is eight or ten inches high, 
before the first crown has appeared, and then 
allowing a shoot (Plate II, Fig. 5-B) to grow 
from the base, or axil, of one of the leaves, just 
below the top. This in turn is kept free 
from branches in the manner shown in 
Plate III, Fig. 6, and develops a single bud, 
which produces the desired quality, and 
flowers four inches across. 

"By thus removing the tip, without wait- 
ing for the first crown to form, one saves 
time, and, what is very important, is likely 
to secure a stouter growth. Should the 
branch (Plate II, Fig. 5-B) end in a cluster 



Plate V 




THE ARTISTIC APPEAL 



The chrysanthemum possesses 
no other flower. Few people 
have the Japanese 



an intrinsic, artistic beauty approached in 
have appreciated its decorative value as 



POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER II 

of -buds, nip out all but one, leaving the 
strongest, which is generally at the too. 

MORE FLOWERS FROM TERMINA/I^ BUDS 

" I prefer to grow the terminals^ and three 
to a stem. Although the flowers are not 
so large, they are more graceful, both in 
the garden and when cut. When the 
young plant is about five inches high nip 
off the top (Plate III, Fig. 7). Shoots then 
start from base of the leaves, forming a 
plant with three to five branches (Plate III, 
Fig. 8). Each of these stems will probably 
terminate in cluster of buds (Plate II, Fig. 
2), which is disbudded as necessary at the 
stage shown in Plate II, Fig. i. I leave 
three good buds, well separated, which will 
develop as shown in Plate II, Fig. 3. 

"These clusters could be reduced to one 
bud to a stem for larger flowers, or allowed 
to develop naturally into a number of flowers 
(Plate III, Fig. 10). The latter, however, 
are too crowded to give perfect blooms. 

MAKING A BUSH PLANT 

"For a bush plant, start with one the 
size of Plate III, Fig. 7; pinch out the tip. 



12 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

and, when each branch is five inches long, and 
looks about the same as the original did, 
pinch out the top of each shoot, and in 
turn treat their branches similarly. When 
the clusters of terminal buds appear remove 
all but the centre bud, if you want the 
finest flowers. The more buds you leave 
the smaller the individual flowers. 

TRAINING FOR STANDARDS 

"I like to grow a few plants in tree or 
standard form, just for variety. I start as 
for single-stem plants, and, when the stem 
is about three feet high, nip out the top. 
This induces branching, but only the upper 
five or six branches are retained, all the 
others being rubbed off. The subsequent 
treatment is as for bush plants. They need 
careful staking. 

"Unfortunately, the plants which are 
destined to grow large flowers will not stand 
alone. One stake to a plant is generally 
enough when growing but a few stems to a 
plant, but when more are required they 
become quite unsightly. Galvanized steel 
wire can be used, and is less obtrusive. If 
several plants are growing together, drive 



POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER I3 

a five-foot Stake at each end of the row, and 
connect them by wires placed a foot apart, 
to which the stems are tied as they grow. 

"An invisible support of my own devis- 
ing is perhaps the best of all when growing 
a clump or bush. As the plant increases 
in size drive a heavy stake (a broomstick 
painted green) so the top will be in the 
centre of the clump, the bottom sometimes 
slanting out slightly, to avoid the roots as 
much as possible. From this, suspend by 
four strings a heavy wire ring about eighteen 
inches in diameter, and with hooked ends, 
to allow its being joined around the plant 
and brought up from below. The strings 
are tied to the ring in slip knots, to permit 
of the ring being raised or lowered as the 
plant may require. The plants completely 
hide the stake, which can be driven quite 
low, and the method of support is not 
noticed. 

"Aside from the staking and disbudding 
details, the routine of work is simple. See 
that the plants do not want for water, and 
early in July spread a mulch of about two 
inches of old manure about the roots to 
prevent the ground from baking. From 



14 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

July until the buds begin to show colour 
I water once a week with liquid sheep 
manure, which is made by soaking five 
pounds of sheep manure in forty-five gallons 
of water, often and weak, rather than seldom 
and strong, being my guiding principle in 
the feeding of the plants. The black and 
green aphides are always troublesome, but 
they can be held in check by the frequent 
use of tobacco dust. 

PROTECTION FROM EARLY FROST 

"Though the plants themselves are hardy, 
the flowers of the large-flowered chrysan- 
themums are more or less tender, and must 
be shielded from frost. About the middle 
of September six-foot stakes, six feet apart, 
are driven into the bed parallel with, and 
two feet from, the edge. The stakes are 
connected by a wire fastened well above 
the tops of the plants. Over the frame thus 
formed strips of burlap, long enough to 
rest on the grass in front and extend well 
down on the other side of the wire fence 
at the back of the bed, are thrown whenever 
frost threatens. The strips are weighted 
at each end with a stick. Other material, 



POINTS FOR THE BEGINNER 1 5 

such as muslin or canvas, would answer 
as a cover, but the burlap is both tougher 
and cheaper, the cover used last fall being 
good after several seasons' wear. 

WINTER PROTECTION 

"After the flowers have matured or have 
been cut, the old stems are cut off" close to 
the ground and the stools covered with 
about eight inches of loose, strawy material. 
Leaves alone prove too compact. I under- 
stand that some people prefer to dig up the 
roots and store the balls of earth close to- 
gether in a corner of the cellar, where it is 
cool but not freezing, but I have never done 
so. Indeed, the old roots are not disturbed 
until the spring division, and they have 
done very well with me out of doors." 

The methods adopted and the results 
obtained by this amateur are above criticism. 
An expert could scarcely do better. A 
list of varieties recommended by him as 
being well adapted to his method of treat- 
ment will be found in the chapter devoted 
to "types and varieties." In reference to 
wintering the plants out of doors, it is doubt- 
ful if equally satisfactory results will be 



l6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

obtained in all localities and soils. In 
colder localities and heavy clay soils the 
plants would be more liable to perish. Some 
pieces of boards laid over the litter to keep 
the plants dry would make them practically 
safe anywhere. 



CHAPTER II 
Growing Under Glass 

The best kind of house — The other kind — Makeshifts — 
Utilizing houses used for growing other plants — Arrangement 
of houses for growing specimen cut blooms for exhibition or 
market — For specimen bush plants, market plants, and for 
general decorative purposes — Storage room 

When chrysanthemums are to be grown 
in considerable quantities, and with the 
expectation of producing the best grades of 
blooms, whether for pleasure or profit, 
there is but one really satisfactory way to 
do it, and that is in a suitable greenhouse. 
While simple and inexpensive methods of 
construction will be described to enable 
many people of modest desires to produce 
good blooms and enjoy them, a well-con- 
structed greenhouse is necessary for flowers 
of the highest quality. 

CONSTRUCTION OF THE HOUSES 

Greenhouse construction has reached a 
very high state of development at the 
present time. Architecture, material, and 
17 



l8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

workmanship are of the highest quality. 
Iron and steel framework is largely used by 
the best builders and generally accepted 
by their customers. While comparatively 
few houses are used for chrysanthemums 
the entire year, there are a great many 
houses built for the express purpose of 
growing them. Various forms are used with 
equally good results, but one of the best is 
the even-span house. This may extend 
either east and west or north and south. 
Ventilators should be provided for both sides, 
at the ridge, and below the eave-plate. 
The chrysanthemum is a robust species of 
plant and delights in an abundance of pure 
air, freely circulating. A house 25 to 30 
feet wide, 15 to 16 feet high at the ridge and 
5 feet high at the eaves, of such length as 
may be desired, will be found to be of 
desirable proportions, although the present 
tendency is to build considerably larger 
houses when plants are to be grown in large 
quantities. 

INFLUENCE OF HOUSE ON PLANTS 

That the character of the house has a 
decided influence upon the plants may 



Plate VI 







.^lii. 









'"my 



A HOUSE FOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND CARNATIONS 

The latter are grown in the outside benches. The former need the extra 

head-room afforded in the centre of the house. Note the arrangements for 
shading 



Plate Vli 




PRIZE EXHIBITION BLOOMS IN THE BENCH 

Plants grown as thickly as this require heavy feeding, protection from 
insects and disease, and plenty of support. The variety is Timothy Eaton 



GROWING UNDER GLASS 1 9 

be gathered from this statement by S. A. 
Hill in The Florists^ Exchange: 

"With most florists who grow roses, carna- 
tions, and chrysanthemums, first place and 
the choicest position is always given the 
rose; the second best is given the carnation; 
while the chrysanthemum is relegated to 
*any old place,' only provided that there is 
tolerably fair head-room for it. It is only 
of late years, and with the most ambitious 
exhibitors, that the chrysanthemum has 
received much consideration as to her 
blooming quarters; but as the old style 
greenhouse passes, and new, up-to-date 
structures replace it, the chrysanthemum 
will be found growing in high, broad houses, 
where the pure air is in free circulation, 
carrying life and vigour into every leaf. 
Two of our 400-foot houses are i8 feet high 
on the ridge, and we have several times 
reconsidered and decided that they probably 
contain a good many cubic feet of wasted 
space; but this year in a re-arrangement 
of stock with the new place they somehow 
got planted to chrysanthemums, with an 
apology to ourselves for giving up such 
valuable space to this tribe from the East, 



20 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

who are supposed to care little where their 
tents may be pitched, if only the man with 
the knife will make no mistake in selecting 
their buds. But — on tile benches, with 
plenty of room overhead, and free air cours- 
ing in every direction — these chrysanthe- 
mums have developed heavier stems and 
more perfect foliage than we have ever 
before seen on our place, and we feel sure 
that the big houses are largely responsible." 

PROPER HOUSES IMPORTANT 

Old houses with heavy sash bars, small 
glass, little head-room, and 2x4 foot venti- 
lating sash, ten feet apart, will not produce 
first-class blooms, however well the plants 
may be treated otherwise. Leaf spot, mil- 
dew, and other diseases will be almost certain 
to attack the plants growing under such 
conditions. Cheap houses may be built 
that will produce good blooms, if the plants 
are treated properly, but they must be light 
and well ventilated. 

I have grown good plants in a temporarily 
constructed house made by setting two or 
three rows of posts, to the tops of which 
strips of narrow boards were nailed hori- 



GROWING UNDER GLASS 21 

zontally and hotbed sash placed on them 
with battens over the joints. With two 
rows of posts a shed roof can be formed, 
and with three rows an equal span will be 
made. No sides will be needed until cold 
nights come; then boards, shutters, or other 
material can be placed about the sides. 
Mosquito netting may have to be placed 
about the sides in some localities to prevent 
the depredations of the tarnished plant bug. 
The plants may be grown in houses that 
are devoted to other things for a portion of 
the year. An early peach house or vinery 
may be utilized after the crop of fruit has 
been removed, although here again light will 
be more or less obstructed, and first-class re- 
sults are not likely to be obtained. They may 
often be grown in houses that are to be used 
during the winter for such vegetables as 
tomatoes or cauliflower, without interfering 
seriously with those crops. 

BENCHES BETTER THAN SOLID BEDS 

When it is intended to grow large speci- 
men blooms, the house may be arranged 
with solid beds, made of good soil placed 
upon the earth floor, or with benches of 



22 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

wood, cement, or other material. Benches 
made to hold soil to a depth of four to six 
inches, with openings in the bottom — 
evenly apportioned to each square foot of 
its area and amounting to from five to ten 
per cent, of the area — for drainage are 
better than solid beds, as the grower has 
greater control over the roots. Plants in 
solid beds will often make stronger growth 
and heavier foliage, but the flowers will 
not generally be as good. 

Benches should be low, particularly so 
those at the sides of the house, allowing at 
least three feet from top of bench to eave- 
plate. Anywhere from twenty to thirty 
inches will be a convenient height. Benches 
may be constructed resting directly upon 
the earth floor, if proper drainage can be 
provided, various methods of construction 
being used. Benches can thus be made 
practically indestructible, and to combine 
the advantages of benches with all the 
available head-room secured by using solid 
beds. For convenience in working, the 
beds should be not more than three or six 
feet wide, those of the latter dimension being 
between two walks. Walks may be from 



GROWING UNDER GLASS 23 

twenty to thirty-six inches wide. One walk 
through each house should be not less than 
thirty inches wide, to allow room for carry- 
ing soil, cutting blooms, and visitors to 
pass. Other walks may be as narrow as 
twenty inches. Walks and beds, of course, 
must conform to the dimensions of the house. 
For growing large specimen bush plants 
a house without benches is best, although 
the plants will be better for being placed 
on benches reasonably close to the glass 
while in their smaller state. After they have 
had their final potting they will be bene- 
fited and be more convenient for working 
if placed directly on coarse gravel or bricks 
on the earth floor. This arrangement is 
also good for ordinary plants that are being 
grown for decorative purposes. In growing 
pot plants for market, benches will be 
better, as the plants will not be too large 
to be handled easily and they will be 
more convenient for giving general care. 
For growing cut blooms for market, 
benches are best. If to be grown in 
large quantities, it is better to have 
sections or divisions of houses for lots 
of early, mid-season, and late varieties, 



24 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

SO that each lot may receive treatment 
according to its needs. 

Where plants or blooms are grown for 
exhibition, or where for any other reason 
it becomes necessary to keep them for some 
time after they have matured, as is frequent- 
ly the case, a storage room is desirable, 
and if not available should be provided. 
Blooms are soon ruined if left in the house 
where grown. A dry, well-ventilated 
building or shed where there is from six to 
ten feet of head-room, where a temperature 
of from 35 to 45 degrees may be maintained, 
and where bright sunshine or even strong 
light can be excluded, will be an ideal place 
for the purpose. 



CHAPTER III 
Preparing the Soil and Propagating 

Character of soil — Manure — Composting — Condition of soil 
used — Getting stock plants in condition for taking cuttings 
— Arrangements for propagating — The north-side propagating 
house — Cuttings in boxes or pots — Division of old plants — 
Propagating for specimen bush plants and standards — For cut 
blooms and small pot plants — Grafting 

One of the most important operations 
connected with the growing of good chrysan- 
themums, either large plants or fine blooms, 
is that of procuring and preparing the proper 
soil for them. If possible, this should be 
done the autumn previous to the season 
when it will be required. Otherwise it 
must be prepared as early in the spring as 
possible. 

mechanical character of the soil 

The mechanical character, or texture, of 
the soil is of greater importance than its 
chemical character or fertility. The chem- 
ical elements required by the plants 
can be supplied after the plants have been 

25 



26 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

planted and are growing. If the soil is 
not in good mechanical condition before the 
plants have begun to take root nothing 
can be done to improve it without injury 
to the plants. If the mechanical character 
of the soil intended for use is bad, some 
means should be used to improve it; for 
while plants may be successfully grown in 
soils varying considerably in this respect, 
extremes of any kind are sure to prove 
detrimental to the health of the plants. 
The soil generally conceded to be best for 
growing chrysanthemums is a friable clay 
loam. Stiff, heavy clay, muck, sandy or 
gravelly soils are not good for the purpose, 
and when from necessity any of them must 
be used, efforts should be made to improve 
them by the addition of other materials 
or soils of opposite character. Heavy clay 
soil will be improved by the addition of 
about one sixth each of sand and leaf mould 
to four sixths of the clay. Gravelly and 
sandy soils will be improved, both mechani- 
cally and chemically, by having a greater 
proportion of heavy manure added to the 
compost than soils of heavier texture can 
stand. 



PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 27 

In collecting the soil, that taken from 
the surface of a pasture field, by removing 
about three or four inches, is most de- 
sirable. This should be placed in a layer 
about six inches thick, in some convenient 
place, and the layer of such extent as to 
make about one fourth of the entire quantity 
required. Upon this place a layer of good 
manure, preferably cow manure, although 
horse, hog, and sheep manure are all good, 
if well decomposed. Sheep manure is 
generally the richest of all. Fresh cow 
manure may be used, but old is preferable. 
The layer of manure should be about two 
inches thick, equal to one fourth of the entire 
bulk. Add another layer of soil and manure 
and continue until the heap is from two to 
three feet thick. If prepared in the fall, 
it should remain undisturbed until the frost 
is out of it in the spring, when it should be 
turned, beginning at one end or side, chop- 
ping the heap down with a spade or other 
implement, mixing the soil and manure well 
together, and making the heap somewhat 
broader than before. Allow it to remain 
in this condition for two or three weeks. 
Then spread over the top and sides a coat- 



28 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ing of good ground bone, equal to one half 
peck to each cubic yard of compost, chop 
the heap down, and turn and mix thoroughly 
as before. Generally this will put the com- 
post in good condition for use, although if 
the soil is stiff and rough a third turning 
may be beneficial. When the compost 
is not prepared until spring it should be 
turned as soon as collected, and a third 
turning will most likely be needed. Such 
a compost, if properly prepared, is all that 
is required for general pottings and for 
filling boxes or benches. 

AN expert's opinion OF COMPOST 

The fact that chrysanthemum growers 
generally the world over are well agreed 
upon the character of compost to be used 
for successful results is plainly shown by 
the following expression of opinion upon 
the subject from the writings of an English 
expert : 

"The question of the feeding of the chrys- 
anthemum resolves itself into two parts — 
namely, the nature of the compost and of 
the subsequent feeding which is given 
when the flower buds appear. It is com- 



PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 29 

monly held that the basis of the compost 
should consist of good fibrous loam. The 
physical (mechanical) condition of the soil 
is of almost as much moment as its chemical 
constitution. It is of prime importance 
that the soil shall be porous, in order that 
thorough drainage and aeration be obtained. 
For this purpose it is well to mix with the 
soil a certain amount of sharp sand and 
charcoal, the presence of the latter being 
particularly desirable. The nature of the 
soil, too, governs the manner of potting. 
For a sturdy growth, light soil should be 
firmly packed, while heavier soils require 
only loose packing. The use of heavy clay 
loam brings with it the danger of water- 
logged roots, while a very light, sandy soil 
permits excessive drainage and consequent 
root starvation. It is preferable, however, 
to err on the side of lightness rather than 
heaviness. With the loam, well-rotted stable 
manure may be mixed in various propor- 
tions, although the ratio of one part manure 
to three parts loam will probably give the 
best results. Horse, cow, and sheep 
manure can all be used with good results; 
but cow manure is generally preferred, as 



30 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

it gives up its fertilizing qualities gradually. 
It is often advantageous to add to the com- 
post one part in four of leaf mould. With 
the lighter soils this is particularly desirable, 
not so much because of any addition of 
nutrient material, but because of its power 
of retaining water and plant food. 

" Various animal as well as mineral fertil- 
izers have frequently been added to the com- 
post, and sometimes even used as substitutes 
for the stable manure. Guano has thus been 
used with good results; so have fish manure 
and dried blood. A very good practice 
is to add to every cubic yard (twenty bushels) 
of compost forty pounds of finely ground 
bone manure, which not only serves as a 
source of phosphoric acid and lime, but 
furnishes some nitrogen. Soot also has 
with advantage been made a part of the 
compost. This furnishes as much as 3 
per cent, of nitrogen, chiefly as sulphate 
of ammonia, as well as small quantities 
of phosphoric acid and potash. It may be 
used at the rate of one to five pounds to 
100 pounds of compost. Should the loam be 
at all deficient in lime, the deficiency should 
be corrected by the addition of a few hand- 



Plate VIII 




Shoots, from which root cuttings are made, about the base of a stock plant 




Cuttings as taken, and, alter being trimmed, ready to be set away in sand 
to root 

ROOT CUTTINGS — I 




^ s 



mJ" 







.^^ 



PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 3 1 

fuls of slaked lime — two or three pounds 
per cubic yard of soil. A lack of lime will 
cause soft stems and flabby leaves. 

" Nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia 
have been recommended by some growers 
as a part of the compost. The evidence 
in favour of this practice is at present in- 
sufficient to commend it. It seems an 
unnecessary addition, with danger of a too 
concentrated soil composition, and waste 
of nitrogen through rapid drainage. Ex- 
cessive concentration of nutrients in the 
soil mixture is more injurious than a 
deficiency, because of the inability of the 
roots to absorb solutions above a certain 
degree of concentration. The result is that 
the plant starves. This fact has been very 
strikingly shown by some chrysanthemum 
cultures seen by the writer. Again, in the 
presence of an excess of nutrients, a good 
development of roots is not produced, even 
though the concentration of the soil solution 
is not too great for absorption by the roots; 
and, further, the roots are not in condition 
to take up the subsequently applied liquid 
manure. The best plan is to have a moder- 
ately rich compost, thereby obtaining healthy 



32 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

roots, Stems, and leaves; then, when the 
buds appear, apply the rich liquid manures. 
Experiments have shown that nitrate of 
soda and sulphate of ammonia may be used 
as a substitute for stable manure, although 
not as an addition to it. Still this does not 
at present seem advisable, the better plan 
being to reserve these for the subsequent 
feeding as liquid fertilizers." — J. J. Willis, 
in The Gardener's Chronicle. 

STOCK PLANTS 

To insure healthy cuttings, the stock 
plants must be given such treatment for 
three or four weeks previous to the time that 
the cuttings are required as will induce 
vigorous, healthy growth. The condition 
most conducive to this result is a light, well- 
ventilated greenhouse or frame, where the 
temperature may be kept at from 40 to 50 
degrees at night and from 50 to 60 degrees 
during bright, sunny days. Stock plants 
that are given such treatment as soon as 
the flowers are cut will furnish good cuttings 
by the middle of December. When cuttings 
are not required until January or February 
or later, the stock plants may be kept as 



PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 33 

described in Chapter I, and be brought 
into growing condition as desired. 

PROPAGATION 

The methods required for successful prop- 
agation will vary slightly during the season, 
according to the changing character of that 
period, but the essential principles are the 
same throughout. These principles are: 
Pure, clean atmosphere, without draughts 
of air striking the cuttings until they have 
begun to make roots; considerable moisture 
in the atmosphere; temperature as nearly 
as possible between 45 and 55 degrees; 
and some arrangement that will hold clean, 
sharp sand, fine gravel, crushed stone or 
brick, or even washed coal ashes, to a 
depth of two to three inches. Various 
arrangements may be made to provide these 
conditions according to the quantity of 
plants to be propagated, the facilities avail- 
able for the purpose, or the inclination of the 
operator, from the extensive propagating 
houses of the prominent commercial estab- 
lishments to a few pots, a small box, or a 
saucer in the window of some enthusiastic 
amateur. The best methods of doing this 



34 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

work are those adopted by the large com- 
mercial establishments. There a large bench 
in a house, or perhaps an entire house, will 
be devoted to the purpose. Cuttings that 
are propagated before the first of April 
will do well in a good position in any house 
if well shaded. After that date what is 
known as a north-side propagating house 
is more desirable for the purpose. This 
house is made by practically putting a 
partition lengthwise of an even-span green- 
house that extends east and west, thus form- 
ing a low, narrow house at the north side 
of a three-quarter span house. Architect- 
urally the propagating house may be distinct 
from the other. It is generally from six 
to seven feet wide, with a bench three to 
four feet wide. The most of the heating 
pipes are placed under the bench, the 
sides of which extend below the bottom, 
sometimes to the floor, thus forming an 
enclosure for the pipes and maintaining 
a higher temperature under the cuttings 
than that of the atmosphere above them, 
producing what is termed "bottom" heat. 
Cuttings of most genera of plants root more 
quickly, and often better, for having a 



PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 35 

limited amount of bottom heat, and 
the chrysanthemum is not an exception. 
It should be very slight, however, 60 
degrees being the highest temperature 
allowable. 

Cuttings in small quantities may be rooted 
readily in boxes, seed pans, or flower pots. 
I have made an excellent propagating frame 
from a large box about ten inches deep, 
with openings in the bottom for drainage, 
covering it with moss and putting in three 
inches of sand. When the cuttings were 
inserted the box was covered with glass, 
which could be removed entirely or raised 
for ventilation, as required. For propa- 
gating after April ist, the coolest position 
that is available should be chosen and some 
means used to protect the cuttings as far 
as possible from direct draughts of air, 
which must necessarily be admitted at this 
season. The outside temperature is very 
much higher at this time, the sunlight 
strong, and the cuttings are likely to suffer 
from too rapid evaporation of the moisture 
which they contain, and which they have 
practically no means of obtaining until 
roots are formed. Such conditions tend to 



36 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

weaken and harden the cuttings, and, if 
not mitigated as far as possible, will seriously 
damage them. The house should be shaded 
lightly and some material placed directly 
over the cuttings. Newspapers answer the 
purpose fairly well; in fact, they are excel- 
lent if they can be kept in place. Plant- 
protecting cloth or cheese cloth, placed 
a few inches above the cuttings and kept 
moist, is good. Abundance of moisture 
must be supplied the cuttings at this season; 
they should be watered several times during 
the day, if the sun is shining. The bench, 
walls, and walks should also be frequently 
sprayed with cool water. 

The method of propagation used in Eng- 
land is to fill small pots — 3 or 4 inch — 
with a mixture of one third each of sand, 
leaf mould, and soil; then cuttings are 
inserted near the edge and the pots placed 
in some position where the necessary con- 
ditions may be maintained. That method 
is but little practised in this country. It 
might, however, be adopted by amateurs 
who desire to grow only a few plants. 

Clean, sharp sand is the best material 
for rooting the cuttings, but where this is 



PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 37 

not available excellent substitutes will be 
found in fine crushed stone or brick, and 
washed coal ashes. 

MAKING THE CUTTINGS 

As before stated, cuttings should be taken 
from healthy plants only. The young shoots 
that are to be used should be reasonably 
strong and of good colour. They should 
be cut about three inches long, and, as they 
are detached from the plants, tied in bundles, 
with a label for each, and placed in water 
immediately. A good cutting should be 
from two to three inches long, being the top 
of a growing shoot. This should be cut 
clean with a sharp knife and one or two of 
the lower leaves removed, the ends of the 
upper leaves being cut off. By taking the 
cutting between the fingers of one hand 
and bringing these leaves together at the 
tip of the cutting, they may all be clipped 
at once, and with a little practice the work 
of making the cuttings properly can be done 
very rapidly. For the best results the stem 
of the cutting should be reasonably soft 
at the base. If too hard it will not root 
so readily, although where it is desired to 



38 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

get as many plants as possible of a variety, 
as in the case of a new or scarce one, cuttings 
may be made of the entire shoot, using a 
single eye or joint for each. Should these 
cuttings be very short, they may be fastened 
to a toothpick or any small splint, allowing 
it to extend an inch or more below the base 
of the cutting, this being pushed into the 
sand as a support. If not convenient to 
put the cuttings in the sand as soon as 
made, they should be left in water, or, 
if to be kept for any length of time, should 
be packed in damp moss and put in a cool 
place. 

Before putting the cuttings in the sand 
the latter should be made firm by pounding 
the surface smooth and, if dry, watered. 
A good plan is to have a strip of wood about 
three inches wide and of the length of the 
width of the cutting bench. This will serve 
as a rule to draw the lines for the cuttings. 
Have a piece of wood shaped like a knife 
blade, but about one fourth of an inch 
thick. With this draw a line by the edge 
of the stick about one and a half inches deep, 
insert the cuttings, use the edge of the rule 
to firm the sand by the side of the cuttings, 



PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 39 

and repeat. The cuttings, if strong, may 
be about two inches apart in the rows; if 
weak, closer. The rows may also be closer 
than three inches, if it is desired to utilize 
space to the best advantage. As soon as 
the cuttings are in the sand they should be 
given a thorough watering, and must never 
be allowed to suffer for want of moisture. 
Cuttings should be well rooted in from two 
to three weeks, without bottom heat; 
with it, in from ten to fifteen days. 
Propagation may also be effected by divi- 
sion of the old plants, or, rather, by carefully 
removing the young shoots with the roots 
that have already formed in the soil. This 
method is rarely practised, but may some- 
times be used for getting bush plants or 
standards started early. 

GRAFTING FOR STANDARDS 

Grafting the chrysanthemum is but rarely 
practised, although the operation is not 
difficult. Whenever it is done it is gener- 
ally for the novelty of having two or more 
colours, or varieties, produced by one plant. 
It has occasionally been done for the purpose 



40 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

of imparting the strength of a vigorous 
variety to a weaker one, but there is very- 
little gained in that direction. Standards 
that could not be obtained in any other way 
may be formed by grafting. 

The best method of procedure for grafting 
bush or single stem plants is to select some 
vigorous-growing variety to supply stocks. 
Propagate the stocks as early as possible, 
and when they have become well established 
in their first pots, and have made five to six 
inches in growth, cut them back to about 
three inches, split the remaining stem about 
one inch down, cut the scion wedge shape, 
insert in the split made in the stem of the 
stock, and bind the point of juncture firmly 
but not tightly with raffia or some other soft 
material. Then place the plants in a posi- 
tion where the temperature can be kept 
at from 60 to 70 degrees and a close, moist 
atmosphere maintained, giving only suffi- 
cient ventilation to keep the air pure, and 
shade from bright sunshine. After ten days 
or two weeks they may be removed to 
ordinary conditions, still keeping them 
shaded, and sprayed with water frequently 
for another week, when they may be grad- 



PREPARING SOIL AND PROPAGATING 4I 

ually exposed to full sunlight and air. If it 
is desired to graft more than one variety on 
to one stock, the stocks must be "stopped" 
when they are about three inches high. 
(The process of stopping is fully described 
in Chapter IV). If more than two or three 
varieties are to be grown on one stock, 
the stock must be stopped again; as many 
shoots must be produced as the number 
of varieties desired. When the shoots from 
the last stopping have made a growth of 
six inches, proceed as before described. 
To graft a standard the stem must be 
grown to the desired height and then grafted 
with a single scion, or the stem may 
be stopped and the resulting branches 
grafted, as in the process previously 
described. 

A large globe, a bell glass, or even a large 
fruit jar may be placed over the head of 
the standard, and supported from below, 
to produce the conditions of moisture and 
heat, care being exercised that the matter 
be not overdone. Some years ago a writer 
gave an account in one of the English 
horticultural publications of the wonderful 
results obtained by grafting the large- 



42 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

flowered varieties on stocks of Chrysanthe- 
mum frutescens^ commonly known as Paris 
daisy. I tried the matter out, but the 
results were not satisfactory. 



CHAPTER IV 
Bush Plants and Standards 

lime for propagating — Watering — Condition of soil used — 
Drainage — Stopping or pinching — Tying and training — General 
care — Supports for the blooms — The finishing operation — 
Transporting the plants 

To PRODUCE first-class specimen bush 
plants or standards the grower must use 
all available means at his command, leaving 
nothing to chance that possibly can be 
foreseen. Good large plants are more at- 
tractive and impressive than good small 
ones. To get large plants they must be 
propagated early. It is advisable to put 
in at least two lots of cuttings for this 
purpose; three lots will be better, as "things" 
will happen to the plants, no matter how 
well they are managed. Early propagated 
plants that are intended for large specimens 
will sometimes make flower buds in March, 
which generally will ruin them for the 
purpose intended. The first lot of plants 
should be propagated before January ist, 

43 



44 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

another lot about January 20th, and a third 
lot about February 15th. If anything hap- 
pens to either of the early lots the next can 
be used, and as little time as possible lost. 
First-class bush plants cannot be grown from 
plants propagated after March ist, much 
less standards. Generally but few plants 
are needed, and the small amount of space 
required for the extra plants may well be 
allowed. By this method the grower is 
reasonably certain of getting some plants 
to grow to a successful issue. The plants 
not needed may be grown for cut flowers, 
or for simple decorative plants, or be dis- 
carded altogether. In selecting varieties 
for bush plants choose those having a 
vigorous but rather dwarf habit of growth, 
moderately heavy foliage, good, strong 
stem, and a full flower of fine colour. Com- 
paratively few of the many varieties in 
general cultivation will make good bush 
plants or standards. 

As soon as the cuttings have made roots 
from one half to one inch long they should 
be taken from the sand and potted, using 
a soil composed of three fifths good loam 
and one fifth each of sand and leaf mould 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 45 

thoroughly mixed. If leaf mould is not 
available, old, light manure may be substi- 
tuted. Two- to three-inch pots may be 
used, according to the amount of roots the 
cuttings may have. A little sphagnum 
moss, with a few pieces of charcoal placed 
in the bottom of each pot, will provide suffi- 
cient drainage for these sizes of pots. The 
soil should be made firm about the roots, and 
the plants placed in a position near the glass 
where they will receive the full benefit of 
the sunlight, although they must be shaded 
from it for a few days. The temperature 
should range from 45 to 50 degrees at night 
to 60 to 65 during bright days. The plants 
should be given a thorough watering soon 
after being potted; afterward water should 
be applied only when the soil has become 
fairly dry. If the soil is kept saturated 
it will become sour and the plants will not 
thrive. Watering must be done with good 
judgment at all times, but special care must 
be exercised in this respect immediately 
after each repotting until the roots have 
penetrated the soil freely. When the soil 
has become filled with roots, no reasonable 
amount of water will do harm, if the soil 



46 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

is of proper texture and good drainage has 
been provided. 

WHEN TO REPOT AND SIZES OF POTS TO USE 

If proper care is given, the plants will 
make roots rapidly, and should be repotted 
as soon as the ball of earth has become fairly 
well filled with them. Do not at any time 
allow them to remain in the pots until 
nothing but a mass of roots can be seen 
when the plants are turned out of the pots. 
This condition is what is termed "pot- 
bound," and will cause the growth to be 
checked to a greater or less extent. Ex- 
amine the plants frequently by turning some 
of them out of the pots. When potting, 
ample room should be left from the surface 
of the soil to the top of the pots, for water. 
This will vary from one half an inch for the 
smallest pots to two or three inches for the 
largest size. The soil for potting (or plant- 
ing) should be in only a moderately moist 
condition, so that if taken in the hand 
and pressed firmly it will, when released, 
retain the imprint of the hand, yet fall 
apart readily. Such soil is in ideal 
condition. 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 47 

In potting, the lighter the soil the 
more firmly it should be packed. Heavy 
soils should be packed very little. 



THOROUGH DRAINAGE OF THE GREATEST 
IMPORTANCE 

Before repotting, the pots that are to 
receive the plants should be provided with 
some material that will allow any excess 
of water that may be given the plants to 
pass away freely and quickly. There is 
nothing better for this purpose than pieces 
of broken pots. Charcoal, clinkers, or 
coarse cinders from coal, however, may be 
used, either in conjunction with the broken 
pots or alone. One good-sized piece should 
be laid over the hole in the bottom of the 
pot, the concave side down, and smaller 
pieces placed over the large one. A single 
layer of the small pieces will do for the 
smaller sizes of pots, but for the largest 
pots they should be at least one and one half 
inches deep. A layer of sphagnum over the 
drainage material for the smaller pots 
and some rough, fibrous sod for the large 
ones will be beneficial. Four-inch pots are 



48 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

generally used for the second potting and 
are probably better than a larger size for 
the purpose, although I have had equally 
good results by using six-inch. More care 
will need to be exercised in watering when 
the larger size is used. 

This repotting, or "shifting," as it is 
termed, must be repeated as the plants 
require, using pots about two inches larger 
at each repetition, until the plants are in 
eight-inch pots. From these they should be 
shifted into the pots in which they are to 
flower, which may be either ten, twelve, or 
fourteeu'inch. The last is not too large for 
healthy plants, which should produce from 
two to three hundred good flowers. After the 
plants have been potted into pots larger 
than eight-inch they cannot be repotted 
with safety, the body of soil being so heavy 
that it is liable to fall apart, damaging the 
roots. At the last potting some additional 
fertilizer may be added to the soil. A 
quart of bone meal and a shovelful of good 
manure to each barrow load of the compost 
prepared for general use will be safe and 
prove beneficial. The coarser portions of 
the soil should be selected for this potting. 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 49 

TRAINING THE PLANTS 

When the young plants are from two to 
three inches high they should be "stopped," 
which means that the point of the growing 
stem or branch must be removed. This 
is generally done by pinching it out with 
the thumb and finger nails, or it may be 
done with the point of a knife. This will 
cause the plant to send out branches from 
below. From three to five will generally 
start after each stopping. After these 
branches have made from three to five leaves, 
according to the position they occupy, 
they must also be stopped. 

At this stage of development, training 
to secure the desired form of the future plant 
should begin. There is a great variety 
of fancy forms in which the plants may 
readily be trained, but such forms do not 
find favour in this country. Practically 
all of the plants grown here are trained in 
one form, the difference being in degree 
only. The form mostly used approaches 
very nearly to a hemisphere, varying more 
or less to globular or conical. The desired 
form of the plant should be decided upon and 
the stopping and tying be directed toward 



50 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

securing that form. If the summer training 
is properly done, the plant will have assumed 
its proper form, but in reduced scale, by the 
time that stopping should be discontinued, 
and all that remains to be done after the 
flowering growths have been made is to 
tie them in the positions that they are natur- 
ally inclined to occupy, no bending or twist- 
ing of the shoots or branches being required. 
Small stakes may be placed about the 
plants, and such shoots as are not in the 
proper position to aid in the symmetrical 
construction of the intended form may be 
drawn gradually to the point where needed 
by placing a piece of soft cord about the 
shoot, near the point, and tying it to the 
stakes. This work must be carefully done, 
as the shoots split very easily at the point 
of juncture. If the plants grow well, com- 
paratively few of the shoots will require 
tying, as the stopping, if properly done, 
will very nearly produce and maintain the 
proper form. Allow some shoots to grow 
longer than others to fill vacant spaces, 
stopping those shorter that are growing 
away too fast. The natural tendency of 
the plant is to grow upward, consequently 



Plate X 




Stock plants in a flat. Started into growth in the spring, they send up 
shoots which are taken off as cuttings. (See Plate \'III) 



^-C 




The cuttings have grown into plants in six-inch pots, have been pinched 
back and will soon be repotted and allowed to develop two flowers each 

ROOT CUTTINGS— III 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 5 1 

the shoots that start from the upper parts 
of the plants should be stopped shorter 
than those starting from the sides. It 
may also be desirable to tie down some of 
the stronger shoots that develop at the top. 
This stopping and tying should be continued 
until about the last week in June or the first 
week in July. Some growers continue the 
stopping much later than this, but if the 
plants were propagated early they should 
be as large as desirable before making their 
flowering shoots at the time stated. More 
stopping will naturally make more flowers, 
but they will not be so large, the foliage 
will be smaller, and the general effect will 
not be so good. When stopping is discon- 
tinued before July ist many of the growths 
made after that date will produce four- 
to five-inch blooms, even though the plant is 
carrying from two to three hundred of them. 
The treatment for standards is exactly 
the same as for bush plants, except that, 
instead of stopping the plants at two to 
four inches high, the stem is allowed to 
grow to whatever height the standard is 
intended to be. Then the stem is stopped 
and the body of the plant, or "head," is 



52 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

formed by subsequent stopping and tying. 
A strong stake must be set beside the stem 
of the standard and the stem tied to it. 

PREVENT THE PLANTS FROM BREAKING 

As soon as the summer training is dis- 
continued, place four or five stakes closely 
about the plants and run some cord around 
them, tying it to the stakes in such 
manner that it will relieve any weight that 
may fall upon the branches. The plants 
are very easily broken at this time, and the 
loss of a branch will ruin a plant. 

After the plants have been in their flower- 
ing pots long enough to have fairly well filled 
the soil with roots, it is a good practice to 
arrange the pots so that some material 
may be placed about them to protect them 
from the sun and heat. During the hot, 
drying days of August and September, 
when the soil in the pots is completely filled 
with roots and the sun striking on the pots 
causes the soil near the outside of the pots 
to dry out very rapidly, the main body of 
soil will remain sufficiently moist, but the 
roots at the outside of the pots will suffer. 
Boards placed about them will afford shade 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 53 

and prevent too rapid drying, or some straw 
or litter may be used. This treatment, 
as also the following, while not absolutely 
necessary, will prove beneficial during the 
periods of excessively hot weather, when 
every available means should be taken to 
improve the conditions. The chrysan- 
themum grows best in a temperature rang- 
ing from 45 to 75 degrees, and when the 
temperature rises into the nineties, as it 
frequently does, with a dry atmosphere 
and burning sunshine, anything that can 
conveniently be done to alleviate such 
conditions will prove beneficial. 

SHADING 

The chrysanthemum thrives best in bright 
sunshine generally, and whatever shade 
is in any sense permanent in character is 
detrimental to its best development and is 
not to be tolerated. Even temporary shade 
is not absolutely necessary, and, unless used 
with good judgment, will be better done 
without. If the matter is thoroughly under- 
stood, temporary shade may be afforded to 
bush plants during the hottest part of ex- 
cessively hot days during July and August 



54 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

with beneficial results. Under no other 
circumstances must shading be considered. 
Cheese cloth stretched above the plants, 
either inside or outside the glass, for three 
or four hours during the hottest part of 
days when the thermometer reads 90 
degrees or more in the shade, will afford the 
plants all the protection that they should 
have. 

DISBUDDING 

With good treatment and favourable 
conditions during the earlier part of the 
season, the plants should arrive at the final 
period of their development — the formation 
of buds and production of flowers — in 
vigorous health and with at least two hundred 
strong, flowering shoots, varying from 
eighteen to thirty inches in length. About 
September ist these shoots will begin to form 
buds, generally a cluster at the extremity 
of each shoot and several below in the axils 
of the leaves. To obtain the best results, 
all of these, except one at the extremity of 
each shoot, must be removed. This operation 
is termed *' taking" the bud and "dis- 
budding," and is described in full detail 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 55 

in the chapter devoted to "growing exhi- 
bition blooms." It is only necessary to 
understand that the same operations are 
to be performed on the bush plants, the sole 
difference being that their flowering shoots 
are smaller than the stems of the plants 
grown for specimen blooms. 

TYING THE BLOOMS IN POSITION 

When the plants have been disbudded, 
preparations should be made for getting 
the blooms tied in the positions that they 
must occupy in order to make a symmetrical 
plant. Some means must be used to support 
the blooms in their positions. There are 
two methods of accomplishing this. Both 
are excellent if well done and either of them 
may be used with good results under vary- 
ing conditions. One method is to use stakes 
of either wood, bamboo, or galvanized wire, 
the latter being much the neatest of all. 
One stake is placed to each flowering shoot 
and the latter tied to it in such manner as 
will hold the bloom in the desired position. 
If a plant is misshapen, and bending and 
twisting the branches must be resorted to 
in order to get it in shape, this will probably 



56 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

be the best method to use. The other 
method, and the one that is more generally 
used at the present time for the plants, 
is to make a wire frame about the plant, 
tying the blooms to the frame or to strings 
carried from one part of it to another. If 
properly arranged, and if good judgment is 
used in tying the blooms, the operator can 
produce a finished plant that will be sym- 
metrical in form and outline, without the 
slightest trace of stiffness. 

There are slight modifications of the form 
of the frame that the ingenuity of the 
operator will suggest, but the following is 
the general plan of construction: Use six 
iron stakes of such size and length as the 
plants will require. No. 8 galvanized 
wire makes good stakes for plants that will 
tie out to about three to four feet in diameter; 
larger plants should have stakes two and 
one half to three and one half feet long, 
made from quarter or five sixteenths inch 
iron rods. If a loop is made at the top 
it will be found convenient. For plants 
that will measure, when tied out, seven to 
eight feet in diameter, use stakes three 
and one half feet long. Place one in the 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 57 

centre of the pot and drive it firmly into the 
soil. Next divide the circumference of the 
pot rim into five equal parts, place a stake 
at the point of each division, and drive it 
firmly into the soil. Wire each stake to 
the pot by means of pieces of light wire wound 
about it and drawn to a heavy wire put 
around the pot under the rim. Next take 
a piece of No. 12 or No. 14 wire and tie it 
to the outer end of each stake, thus forming 
a circle about the plant. The stakes should 
be placed at such an angle as will give room 
for tying the greater part of the blooms above 
the circle; it is better to have some tied below 
it. The judgment of the operator alone 
can determine the question of the proper 
angle to give the stakes. They can easily 
be bent lower or higher after the circle of 
wire is in place if it is desirable to do so. 
Then take some short pieces of the same 
size wire that was used for the circle 
and fasten one end in the loop, if you have 
one, of the centre stake, bringing the other 
to the upper end of each of the side stakes 
and secure it by tying. Also run a piece 
of the wire from the centre stake to the circle, 
midway between each two side stakes, mak- 



58 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ing ten wires in all. You have thus made a 
frame like that of an umbrella having ten 
divisions. If the work has been well done 
two men can take hold of the frame and carry 
the plant by it. 

When you are ready to begin tying the 
blooms, count the number of them on the 
plant, divide the number by ten, and the 
quotient will be the number of blooms to 
be allotted to each division. This dividing 
and allotting would better be done before 
the short wires are tied in place at the lower 
end. Then they may be raised to allow 
the blooms to be passed from one division 
to another, as undoubtedly some will con- 
tain more than the required number and 
others less. This work well done, the 
plant is ready for tying the blooms in posi- 
tion. The tying can be done at any time 
after the buds have formed, but it is better 
to defer doing it until the blooms are nearly 
half open, as the size and character of the 
bloom can then be determined, and a much 
better finish given to the plant. Begin at 
the centre of the plant and work outward and 
consequently downward. The blooms will, 
in all probability, vary considerably in size 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 59 

and length of stem. In tying, place blooms 
of different size and height adjoining, as 
far as possible. If this point is carefully- 
carried out, the plant will be symmetrical 
in outline and yet free from the slightest 
appearance of stiffness. Good taste and 
judgment are very important factors in 
the successful outcome of this work. 
Silkoline or green smilax twine should be 
used for tying. Pieces of this may be 
stretched from each of the short wires to 
the other, and blooms that have to be 
tied between two wires may be fastened 
to the strings. Each section should be tied 
in conjunction with the others, working 
from the centre of the plant and entirely 
around it until finished. The finished plant 
should show practically none of the frame- 
work. 

The frame for tying out the blooms of 
standards is very similar, except that the 
centre stake should be made of wood about 
one inch square. Two holes should be 
bored through this at right angles to each 
other, with a gimlet or small bit, just large 
enough to allow a piece of No. 8 wire to 
pass through, and at such height as will 



6o CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

allow the circle of wire that is to be fastened 
to the ends of the two wires to come in 
proper position for tying the blooms. These 
two wires correspond to the side stakes of 
the frame for bush plants. Short wires 
should now be placed from the circle to the 
top of the centre stake as in the other frame, 
the only difference being that there will be 
eight instead of ten divisions. The method 
of tying should be the same as that for bush 
plants. 

GETTING THE PLANTS TO THE EXHIBITION 

As large specimen bush plants and stand- 
ards are grown for exhibition more frequently 
than for any other purpose, the question 
of transporting them to the place of exhi- 
bition is a serious one, especially if the 
distance is considerable. When the distance 
is not more than ten or fifteen miles they 
may be carried with reasonable assurance 
of safety, generally, in spring wagons of 
some kind. With the plants fastened firmly 
in the wagon, with reasonably good roads, 
and a careful driver, they will reach their 
destination in good order, barring accidents. 
When the plants must be sent to a consider- 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 6 1 

able distance they must necessarily go 
by rail, either freight or express. 

If a number of plants are to be sent, 
and sufficient time can be allowed, the best 
method is to engage a box car and send the 
plants by freight, as they can all be placed 
in the car and made fast so that no harm can 
come to them. When the plants have to 
be sent singly they must be crated for ship- 
ment, and the crating thoroughly done. 
Use strong material for making the crate, 
but as light as possible while consistent with 
strength. Make a good base and fasten 
the pot to the bottom firmly, bracing and 
supporting it from each of the sides of 
the crate. To reduce the diameter of the 
plant, thus allowing the crate to be as small 
as possible, some of the blooms on the out- 
side of the plant may be drawn up, loose 
from the frame if such is used, and tied to- 
gether, and returned to their original posi- 
tions upon the delivery of the plant. If the 
pot is properly fastened in the crate, the 
plant itself will need no support. It will 
be well to cover the crate with poultry 
netting, to prevent anything from being 
dropped or pushed through it; also to 



62 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

prevent any one from evincing their love 
for flowers by nipping off a few blooms. 
Plants properly crated will carry safely 
hundreds of miles. 

SCALES OF POINTS FOR JUDGING PLANTS 

The Chrysanthemum Society of America 
has adopted scales of points for judging 
plants at exhibitions, which are as follows: 

A — Scale of points for bush plants and 
standards, single specimen or any number 
up to six, in an exhibition where the class 
under consideration does not form the chief 
feature in the exhibition hall: 

Points 

Equality of size and forms of plants 40 

Excellence of bloom 3S 

Foliage 25 

Total 100 

B — Scale of points for bush plants, ex- 
hibits of more than six or for any number 
of specimen plants in an exhibition where 
the class under consideration forms the 
chief feature in the exhibition hall: 

Points 

Equality of size and forms of plants 35 

Size of bloom 40 

Foliage 25 

Total 100 



Plate XIII 




PRIZE WINNING STANDARD 



Like specimen bush plants, standards are grown chiefly for exhibitions. 
Ihe amateur will probably get more enjoyment from outdoor kinds and 
smgle exhibition blooms 



BUSH PLANTS AND STANDARDS 63 

C — Scale of points for plants grown to 
single stem and one bloom. A height of 
not over three feet is recommended for 
plants in this class, and pots not over six 
inches in diameter: 

Points 

Excellence of bloom 40 

Compact, sturdy growth 35 

Foliage, 25 

Total 100 



CHAPTER V 
The Science and Practice of Feeding 

Chemical analysis of the plant — Sources of food supply — Danger 
of overfeeding — Preparing liquid fertilizers — Varying the foods 
— Surface dressings 

While it is not absolutely necessary that 
the grower should know the chemical com- 
position of the plants under his care to enable 
him to produce good plants or blooms, 
this knowledge may prove beneficial to 
him and aid him materially in providing 
the necessary food for his plants, and should, 
at least, make his work more interesting. 
Dr. A. B. Griffiths, the eminent agri- 
cultural chemist, has given the chemical 
composition of the chrysanthemum, in one- 
hundredth parts, determined by analysis. 
The element nitrogen forms 2.92 parts of 
the entire organic substance of the plant. 
The mineral substance is made up of : 

Potash i6.2parta 

Lime 26.3 " 

Soda 10.4 ** 

64 



SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 65 

Magnesia 10.2 parts 

Iron oxide 3.7 

Phosphoric acid 19. 5 

Silica 6.0 

Chlorine 3,0 

Sulphuric acid 4.7 



If the food supplied to the plants were 
based upon a literal assumption of the facts 
as demonstrated by the analysis, we should 
probably be obliged to go to the druggist 
to have it prepared. The practical experience 
of many growers for years, however, has 
demonstrated the fact that soils generally 
contain enough of most of the elements 
necessary to the development of all forms 
of plant life. The soils found in practically 
all parts of the United States, with the 
exception of the Western deserts and alkali 
regions, contain more or less of all the ele- 
ments in the structure of the chrysanthe- 
mum. Generally there is an insufficient 
supply of some of the elements for the 
highest development of the plants; conse- 
quently we must supply the deficiency. 

ELEMENTS OF PLANT FOOD 

As it is practically impossible for us to 
know positively how much of the different 



66 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

necessary elements the soil may contain, 
we can only treat the different soils intelli- 
gently by grouping them under three general 
heads and designating them rich, medium, 
and poor. Even rich soil should have some 
fertilizer applied to it at some time, as the 
elements of plant food are constantly being 
absorbed by the plants growing in them and 
are being dissolved and carried away by 
rains; or, as in the case of plants growing 
in pots, being washed out by the daily 
waterings. As rich soils are rarely to be 
had, we will assume that the soil which has 
been prepared for the general pottings is 
of medium fertility. 

THE DIFFERENT FERTILIZERS 

What are the elements in which the soil 
is likely to be deficient.'' From what sources 
may we best procure those elements? The 
practical experience of cultivators of the 
soil, aided by the scientific research of 
competent chemists, has demonstrated the 
fact that, with rare exceptions, soils generally 
contain sufficient of all the elements except 
nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash. The 
available sources of supply of these three 



Plate XIV 




Looking down on the cluster of buds. The crown bud Is In the centre 
ready for " taking " 




Removing the undesired terminal buds, or "taking" the crown bud A 
steady hand, a bright eye and a sharp knife are needed if the crown bud 
is to remain unharmed 



TAKING THE BUD— I 



SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING (i^ 

elements are various animal manures, refuse 
from the carcasses of animals, and various 
mineral substances. Animal manures all 
contain more or less of each of the three 
elements needed, and the urine more of them 
than the solid matter. Manure from horses, 
cows, oxen, or sheep is the most desirable, 
that from sheep containing more than three 
times as much nitrogen as that from cows, 
while that from horses contains, when fresh, 
about twice as much. Cow manure is 
always preferable to horse manure, how- 
ever, because of its ability to retain the 
fertilizing elements longer. Sheep manure, 
if properly cared for, is better than cow ma- 
nure, but less of it should be used, propor- 
tionately. Ground bone or bone meal that 
has been properly prepared is one of the 
best and safest sources of plant food. This 
contains a large amount of phosphoric 
acid, considerable nitrogen, and lime. Dried 
blood and tankage supply nitrogen, as do 
also nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia. 
Nitrate of soda contains nitrogen in the most 
available form of all the sources of supply. 
Nitrate of potash is a good but expensive 
source of supply for potash. Wood ashes, 



68 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

if good, contain some potash, but the amount 
is uncertain. What are known as "complete 
fertilizers" may be used. These contain 
all three of the elements in varying amounts. 
When their nature is fully understood they 
may be used with good results, but great 
care is needed or damage will be done. 

The soil was supplied with some plant food 
and in sufficient quantity when the soil and 
manure were composted and the bone added. 
This soil should contain sufficient food to 
give the plants an abundant supply until 
they have been in their flowering pots long 
enough to allow the roots to distribute 
themselves evenly and thoroughly through 
all parts of it. If the plants have had 
proper treatment and have made growth 
as they should have done, they would be 
ready to shift into their flowering pots at 
any time from May 20th to June loth. 
Assuming that they received their final 
potting about June ist, and stopping was 
discontinued July 1st, the plants should be 
growing vigorously and the soil well filled 
with roots by July 15th, when it will 
be well to consider the matter of sup- 
plying them with food in liquid form. It 



SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 69 

must be distinctly understood, however, 
that not the calendar, but the condition of 
each individual plant, must determine the 
question of when to begin this feeding. 
Some varieties may not require it at all. 
If the plants are not growing vigorously, 
with heavy foliage or dark-green colour, do 
not give them additional food. When in 
fine health the chrysanthemum is a good 
feeder and a robust grower. If not 
growing freely it is not in good health, 
and any attempt to force it into health 
by increasing the amount of feeding ma- 
terial in the soil will simply aggravate the 
situation. 

SUPPLYING THE PLANTS WITH LIME 

While scientific authorities do not consider 
lime to be a direct fertilizer, the fact that 
it is a necessary element of the plant food 
makes it a fertilizer for all practical purposes. 
As lime appears in the largest quantity of 
any single element in the ash of the chrysan- 
themum, a reasonable amount of it should 
be supplied to the plants; for while most 
soils contain some lime, many have an in- 
sufficient amount, and, as in the case of the 



70 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

chrysanthemum, practical experience has 
corroborated the evidence given by the 
chemist in his analysis. It will be well to 
supply the plants with more food than 
the soil is likely to contain. Professional 
growers know that lime improves the quality 
of the plants very materially. This is 
particularly true of plants grown for cut 
blooms. A liberal use of lime makes the 
stems stiffer, the foliage firmer, and gives 
the blooms more substance. Nitrogen is 
the element that is generally lacking more 
than the others, because it is more quickly 
absorbed, dispelled, or wasted. 

While lime forms such an important part 
of the substance of the chrysanthemum, it 
is rarely supplied at the time the soil is 
composted, for the reason that the plants 
do not require it so much when small; 
and also for the reason that lime, in the 
form in which it is generally used, has the 
power to a greater or less extent to set free 
ammonia, which is one of the forms in which 
nitrogen is supplied to plants, thus wasting 
more or less of the most valuable fertilizing 
element. Lime may now be easily supplied 
to the plants In several ways. A surface 



SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 7 1 

dressing of wood ashes, applying a small 
handful to each large pot, is one way, as 
this product contains considerable lime. 
Wood ashes may also contain a small amount 
of potash. A dressing of air-slaked lime 
may be given in the same proportion as 
the wood ashes. The best method is to 
slake a half bushel of good lime in a barrel. 
After it is well slaked, fill the barrel with 
water. Use this lime solution, well stirred, 
at the rate of one gallon to eight or ten 
gallons of clear water, giving the plants a 
watering with it every ten days or two 
weeks. Assuming that feeding the plants 
with liquid food was begun July 15th, a 
watering with lime water is given at the 
outset. Some liquid manure should be 
prepared for the next application. Get a 
fifty-gallon barrel and an old burlap bag, 
into which put about a bushel and a half 
of fresh cow manure; that taken from the 
stables is the best, as it will contain some 
urine. Put the bag of manure in the barrel 
and fill the latter with water, allowing it 
to stand for two or three days, giving the 
bag a stirring each day. Apply it to the 
soil in the pots diluted with clear water in 



72 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the proportion of one gallon of liquid to 
five or six gallons of clear water. In using 
liquid fertilizers of any kind do not apply 
them when the soil is dry. If such is the 
case give the soil a watering with clear water 
before applying the liquid. Never give the 
plants two successive waterings with liquid 
fertilizers. Follow a watering with liquid 
fertilizer by one with clear water. This 
method not only distributes the feeding 
through a given period of time, but is 
much safer. One or two waterings with 
any fertilizer of a given strength may do 
no harm, but a third watering of the same 
strength might cause one or more chemical 
elements to accumulate in the soil in suffi- 
cient quantity to cause injury to the plants. 

The soil is a laboratory where chemical 
changes are constantly taking place under 
favourable conditions of moisture and tem- 
perature, and during the summer it is be- 
lieved that they are sometimes quite rapid. 

In the case of chrysanthemums growing 
in less than a cubic foot of soil — almost 
completely filled with roots — any material 
changes are likely to affect the health of 
the plant, and whether beneficial or detri- 



SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 73 

mental can.only be determined when probably 
too late. Unless you desire to experiment, 
regardless of results, it will be the part of 
wisdom to err on the side of safety. Clear 
water, judiciously applied, acts as a restrain- 
ing and rectifying agent, dissolving, diluting, 
and distributing the chemicals which the 
soil contains, as well as bringing them in 
contact with the roots in the only form 
(soluble) that they can absorb them, and, 
with proper drainage, carrying away excess 
and minimizing the danger of any chemicals 
accumulating in the soil in sufficient quan- 
tity to do injury. It is also better to change 
the kind of liquid fertilizer at least every 
week. Having given the plants a watering 
with lime water, followed by a week of 
watering alternately with cow manure and 
clear water, some other form of food may 
be supplied. 

NITRATE OF SODA 

This is an excellent medium for supplying 
the plant with nitrogen, and, when judi- 
ciously used, will generally benefit the plants 
greatly. It is entirely safe to use at the 
rate of one half a tablespoonful (equal to 



74 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

about one half an ounce) to two gallons 
of water. 

NITRATE OF POTASH 

For supplying the plants with potash, this, 
commonly known as saltpeti*€, is the best 
of all materials that can be used for the 
purpose. It is quite expensive, but, when 
small quantities are needed and it is used 
as economically as possible, is the most 
satisfactory of all the forms of potash. It 
also contains considerable nitrogen, and may 
be used in the same manner and the same 
proportions as nitrate of soda. The plants 
should by all means have a week of water- 
ing with this food early in the feeding season. 

SULPHATE OF AMMONIA 

This fertilizer contains a greater amount 
of nitrogen than any other. It is slower 
in action than nitrate of soda. It is also 
somewhat heavier, but may be used in the 
same proportion by weight. 

COMPLETE CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS 

These may be used if their strength and 
character are understood. There are in- 



SCIENCE AND PRACTICE OF FEEDING 75 

numerable brands, containing varying 
amounts of the three required elements. 
By the laws of most states, the manu- 
facturer is compelled to state the formula 
on the package containing the fertilizers. 
If any are to be used for chrysanthemums, 
those should be selected that have a low 
percentage of nitrogen and reasonably high 
percentages of phosphoric acid and potash. 
There are some brands that are now pre- 
pared expressly for chrysanthemums and 
sold by seedsmen. The ordinary brands 
may be safely used at the rate of a half- 
tablespoonful to two or three gallons of 
water, while the special brands have special 
directions given for their use. A fertilizer 
containing 2 to 3 per cent, of nitrogen, 7 to 
8 per cent, of potash, and 9 to 10 per cent, 
of phosphoric acid can be safely used for a 
short period, at a strength of one half a 
tablespoonful to three gallons of water. 
Sheep manure may be used for one week of 
watering, making a liquid from it as directed 
for cow manure, only do not use more than 
one half bushel of manure to the barrel. 

It is not necessary that all the different 
fertilizers here specified shall be used. A 



y6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

choice of them is optional with the grower, 
using a reasonable variety for change. These 
supplemented by light surface dressings 
will carry the plants to a successful finish. 
A light surface dressing of fine ground bone 
meal should be given early in the season. 
Later, one of good manure should be applied 
sufficiently heavy to protect any roots that 
may come to the surface, and about the first 
of September a small handful of good wood 
ashes to each pot should prove beneficial. 
The feeding of bush plants may be continued 
until the blooms are more than half developed, 
provided always that the plants give evi- 
dence by their condition that they are 
assimilating the food which is given them. 



CHAPTER VI 
Growing Exhibition Blooms 

Time for propagating — First potting — Growing in beds ^ or 
benches — In boxes — In pots — Six-inch pot plants — Planting 

— Watering — Staking and tying — General care — Feeding — 
Prevention of damage by insects and disease — Taking the buds 
and disbudding — Crown buds — Scalding and dampening of the 
blooms — Shading — Cutting — Storing — Packing — Shipping 

— Dressing the blooms — Staging — The results 

For getting first-class blooms of most 
varieties for exhibition purposes the plants 
should be propagated before May ist. 
While good blooms may be had from plants 
propagated as late as June ist, the best 
flowers will generally be produced by plants 
that have been propagated during the 
months of March and April, other things 
being equal. Some varieties will produce 
decidedly the best blooms from plants prop- 
agated as early as February. With the 
exception of a few varieties, however, plants 
that are propagated from April ist to 20th 
will produce first-class blooms. Follow the 
instructions and suggestions given under 

77 



78 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the head of "Propagation" (Chapter III). 
Potting should be done as advised for bush 
plants. As the sun will be much higher 
and its rays much more powerful at this 
time, the plants will not necessarily need 
to be placed so near the glass as is advisable 
for bush plants, and they will require 
shading for a few days longer. They 
should then be given full benefit of the 
sun and during the hottest part of the 
day should be sprayed overhead several 
times with clean water. 

What is the best method of growing the 
plants? The answer will depend largely 
upon contingent circumstances. If the 
grower must be economical of both space 
for the plants and labour bestowed upon 
them, the best method will be to grow them 
in either solid beds or raised benches. 
Solid beds are objectionable because they 
do not allow the grower sufficient control of 
the roots, generally. If they have to be 
used, abundant drainage must be provided 
by placing under the soil in which the plants 
are to grow at least six inches of broken 
stone or bricks, or coarse clinkers and cinders 
from coal. Benches about six inches deep, 




[-* O rt 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 79 

containing from four to five inches of soil, 
are preferable to solid beds. These must 
also be provided with abundant openings 
in the bottom for draining away any excess 
of water. Growing the plants in boxes 
that will contain from six to ten plants is 
a very satisfactory way. In fact, when not 
more than two or three hundred blooms are 
required, and the blooms, or at least a part 
of them, must be kept for some time after 
they are fully developed, this is the most 
satisfactory method of all, as when the 
blooms in any box are nearly matured the box 
may be taken from the house to the storage 
room, where the flowers will keep in good 
condition for a month or more. The plants 
may also be grown in pots. But save 
in the case of plants that are grown for the 
purpose of exhibiting in the pots as they 
grew, when six-inch pots are used, this is 
the least desirable method of all, although 
good blooms may be produced. Plants 
that are grown to single stem and bloom in 
six-inch pots are nearly always a feature 
of chrysanthemum exhibitions. They are 
also very desirable as house plants and 
for decorative purposes. For this method 



8o CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

of culture, dwarf-growing varieties should 
be used and the plants propagated after 
May 1st. 

When ready to be shifted from their first 
pots the plants should be transferred direct 
to the soil in which they are to grow and 
flower. Repotting is unnecessary, except 
where the arrangements for their permanent 
quarters are not completed, in which case 
a shift into four- or six-inch pots would be 
preferable to having them become checked 
by being pot-bound. 

The distance apart for planting will 
depend somewhat upon the character of the 
varieties. Those having large, heavy foliage 
require more room than those of less robust 
growth, but as only strong-growing varieties 
should ever be grown to any extent for 
exhibition purposes, the standard distance 
ought to be made ample for the strongest 
growers. To get first-class blooms this 
distance should be ten by twelve inches; 
rows twelve inches apart, and plants ten 
inches apart in the rows. If space is limited, 
eight by ten or ten by ten inches will do, 
but the first-named distance will give the 
plants better chance for full development. 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 8 1 

The varieties should be so disposed that 
tall-growing ones will not overgrow dwarf 
ones. The extreme dwarf-growing varieties 
should be selected for the side benches, tall 
ones being grown in centre or back benches. 
It is best to plant varieties in blocks as 
much as possible, and early, mid-season and 
late varieties as much as possible together. 
When grown in large quantities an entire 
house or section of a house should be 
planted with early-flowering varieties, an- 
other with mid-season, and another with 
late varieties. 

BOXES BEST FOR SMALL QUANTITIES 

If the plants are to be grown in boxes, 
a convenient size for the purpose is twenty- 
five inches long, twelve to fifteen inches wide, 
and eight to ten inches deep, inside measure- 
ments. This size is easy to handle and will 
accommodate six plants. Larger boxes that 
will accommodate ten or twelve plants may 
be used, but are not convenient for handling, 
particularly so after the blooms are devel- 
oped. Cypress is good material to use in 
making the boxes. Narrow strips, nailed 
either lengthwise or crosswise of the bottom. 



82 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

with spaces three fourths of an inch wide, 
will provide the necessary drainage. The 
soil for planting should be from six to 
eight inches deep. This will allow ample 
room for later surface dressings. When 
the plants are to be grown in pots, six-, 
eight-, and ten-inch ones are used. Three 
plants may be grown to each of the latter 
size. 

Before the plants have filled the soil in 
their first pots completely with roots the 
beds or boxes should be filled with soil in 
proper condition as to moisture. Use soil 
prepared as directed in Chapter 11. The ball 
of soil in which the young plants are growing 
should be moist but not wet. For planting 
in benches or beds have a piece of heavy cord 
the length of the bed, and stick pins in it 
at the distance that the rows of plants are 
to be apart across the beds. Fasten the 
cord about two inches back of where the first 
row of plants is to be, at one side of the 
bed, lengthwise. By placing a plant two 
inches away from the line, and opposite 
the point indicated by the pins, the work of 
planting can be done rapidly. Set the 
plants sufiiciently deep to allow about one 




o o 
^ o 

c o 



84 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

some means must be used to support them in 
order to get straight stems with good flowers. 
When the plants are grown in beds or benches 
there are two methods that may be used. 
Wires may be stretched lengthwise of the 
benches above each row of plants and as the 
plants grow they may be tied to the wires. 
As they make further growth another wire 
may be stretched, ten to twelve inches above 
the first, and this process repeated as often 
as required. For narrow benches and dwarf- 
growing varieties this method does very well, 
but for wide benches and tall-growing varie- 
ties is very inconvenient, as it is difiicult to 
get at the plants for syringing, tying, and 
disbudding. When the plants are grown in 
considerable quantities the most commonly 
practised method is to stretch two lines of 
light wire — No. 1 8 or 20 is heavy enough — 
to each row of plants lengthwise of the beds, 
one a few inches above the soil and the other 
sufliciently high to be considerably above 
the plants when they have finished their 
growth. A piece of hemp or jute twine is 
then tied from one wire to the other by each 
plant, and as the plants grow they are tied to 
the twine. Wire or bamboo stakes may be 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 85 

used In much the same way, except that the 
lower wire will not be required. When the 
plants are grown In pots or boxes, stakes of 
some kind must be used. For boxes, a good 
plan is to have stakes of about the required 
length and place them in the soil at the 
sides of the box, fastening them in 
position by driving a small staple over 
them and into the side of the box. If 
No. 8 wire is used this will make a firm 
support. 

REMOVE SIDE BRANCHES AND BUSHES 

After the plants have become established 
they will begin to make growths or branches 
from the main stem at the axils of the leaves. 
These must be removed or they will absorb 
the nourishment that should go toward mak- 
ing a strong stem for the future bloom. The 
plant must be compelled to concentrate 
all Its energies at one point. These side 
branches are easily pinched out with the 
thumb and fingers while less than an Inch 
long, and they should never be allowed to get 
longer. Always be sure, however, to leave 
one or two of them at the top of the stem, for 
the stem will frequently "go blind" — that is, 



86 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the growing point will become checked, some- 
times from no apparent cause, and cease to 
grow. If all of the side branches should be 
removed in such case the plant would make 
no further growth and consequently produce 
no bloom. In case of the stem going blind, 
allow the strongest of the upper side branches 
to grow, and when long enough it should be 
tied to the support, when it will form the 
main stem. 

The surface of the soil should be stirred 
frequently to allow the sun and air to act 
upon it; also to kill weeds that will generally 
start freely. Suckers will soon begin to grow 
from the base of the stems. These should 
be kept in subjection by removing a part 
of them and pinching out the tips of the 
others. Some varieties produce suckers 
much more freely than others. Those that 
do not produce them freely should have 
but few removed, as it is upon these 
that the supply of cuttings for the next year 
depends. 

The depredations of insects and diseases 
should be forestalled ; the ounce of prevention 
is always worth many pounds of cure. A 
constant and intelligent watchfulness must 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 87 

be maintained and treatment given as 
advised in Chapter I. 

TIME FOR APPLYING SPECIAL FOODS 

When planting has been done between 
May 15th and 20th, the plants, if growing 
as they should, will be ready for some special 
feeding about July 15th. As the matter of 
special feeding has been thoroughly discussed 
in Chapter V, and as the same general prin- 
ciples apply to the feeding of all plants, it is 
only necessary to make slight changes or 
modifications of the treatment for plants 
grown for cut flowers. Surface dressings 
may be used to better advantage for plants 
growing in beds or boxes than for those 
growing in pots. The first food should be an 
application of fine ground bone meal at the 
rate of one pound to twenty square feet of 
surface. Cow or sheep manure water may 
then be used for a week, followed by an 
application of lime water or of dry air- 
slaked lime at about double the rate advised 
for the bone. Sulphate of ammonia should 
be given next, after which a surface dressing 
of well-decomposed cow or sheep manure, 
about one inch thick, should be applied. 



88 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

When the buds are well formed one week of 
watering with nitrate of soda may be given, 
after which this chemical should not be used 
again. Alternate waterings with cow or 
sheep manure water, sulphate of ammonia, 
and nitrate of potash will give sufficient 
variety of food, and, if properly applied, will 
produce first-class blooms. These special 
feedings must always be consistent with 
good judgment and observation, bearing in 
mind the admonitions and advice given in 
Chapter V. 

SELECTION OF BUDS IMPORTANT 

About the first of August, sometimes ear- 
lier, but generally a little later, some of the 
early-flowering varieties will begin to form 
what are known to professional florists and 
gardeners as "crown buds." The growing 
tip of the plant will appear to divide, and 
instead of a single stem continuing to grow 
there will be (generally) three branches 
growing from the top of the plant. In the 
axil of these branches will appear a small, 
elongated bud. This is the crown bud, 
a very important factor in the produc- 
tion of first-class chrysanthemum blooms. 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 89 

There are always in cultivation a few varie- 
ties on which the crown bud produces an 
inferior bloom, but with most varieties 
blooms produced from crown buds selected 
at the proper time will prove superior, other 
things being equal. The question of whether 
the crown bud shall be used or discarded will 
occasionally depend upon the variety pro- 
ducing it, but generally upon the date on 
which it makes its appearance. This matter 
will be fully discussed farther on. To get 
first-class exhibition blooms it is important 
that the crown bud be selected whenever it 
appears at the proper time. Blooms of the 
same variety will often be fully one fourth 
larger from crown than from terminal buds. 
They will also be fuller and of better sub- 
stance, and the stem and foliage will gen- 
erally be better, although some varieties 
develop a long bare "neck" just below the 
bloom when the crown bud is used. There 
are, however, enough varieties in cultivation 
that do not have this objectionable feature 
to allow those that do have it to be reserved 
for purposes in which the neck will not be 
objectionable. Blooms of pink varieties 
sometimes lack colour when crown buds are 



90 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

used, but this also is not a serious objection, 
if the bud has not been taken too early. 

In case it is desired to use the crown bud, 
all the little branches that have started to 
grow about it must be removed before they 
are an inch long, care being taken that the 
bud is not damaged in doing so. The point 
of a small knife blade is a good instrument 
for doing this work. If the branches are not 
removed, the crown bud will not develop, 
the branches appropriating all the substance 
necessary to its development. 

If the time is not propitious, or if for any 
other reason it is desired that the crown bud 
shall be discarded, remove all of the branches 
that have started from the top of the plant 
except the strongest and best one, allowing 
this to remain and develop. Generally this 
will grow for about three or four weeks, and 
then produce three or four globular or 
slightly flattened buds in a compact cluster. 
These are known as "terminal" buds, so 
called because they terminate the plant's 
season of growth, and if they are all removed 
the plant will produce no flowers. If it is 
desired to use a terminal bud for producing a 
bloom, all of the buds of the cluster are 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 9I 

removed except the central or largest one. 
The same method may be used for removing 
these as was advised for the crown bud, and 
the same care must be taken in order that the 
remaining bud be not damaged. Thus it 
will be seen that "taking" the bud is merely- 
selecting and deciding which bud to retain. 
The operation of removing the discarded 
buds and growths is called "disbudding." 
It should be borne in mind that, in disbud- 
ding, all buds and growths are to be removed 
from the given stem of cut bloom plants and 
from the flowering shoots of bush plants, 
except the buds that have been taken, or 
selected, to produce the flower. Disbud- 
ding should never be done during the heat of 
the day, as the growth is then wilted and 
tough, and there is greater danger of damag- 
ing the remaining buds. If done in the early 
morning or during cool, cloudy weather, 
while the growth is firm, the buds will snap 
out very easily. 

The question of whether to take the crown 
bud or allow the plant to grow and develop 
a terminal bud can only be determined 
by the judgment of the operator in each 
individual instance. The date upon which 



92 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

each appears Is the most important point to 
be considered, and the earliest date on which 
crown buds may be taken and produce sat- 
isfactory blooms will depend largely upon 
latitude and local conditions. A general 
principle that may be used as a guide is that 
cool, dry weather conditions tend to hasten 
the formation of buds, and vice versa. In 
the northern hemisphere the chrysanthemum 
generally forms its buds during the months 
of August and September. In the southern 
hemisphere they would be formed in February 
and March. In the vicinity of the fortieth 
degree of north latitude, and in the eastern 
part of the United States, the earliest date 
on which crown buds of the best mid-season 
or late exhibition varieties may be taken with 
reasonable assurance that they will develop 
good blooms is August 15th, and only a very 
few varieties will develop satisfactory blooms 
from buds taken before the 20th. Crown 
buds of early-flowering varieties may be 
taken as early as August ist with reasonable 
assurance of producing good blooms. 
Farther north, or when grown at a high alti- 
tude, they might possibly be taken a few 
days earlier; while farther south they could 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 93 

not be taken so early. There is sometimes 
considerable difference between plants of the 
same variety grown in the same locality by 
different growers. Unless the grower is fully 
acquainted with the character of the va- 
rieties grown, in respect to the bud develop- 
ment, it will be a safe rule to take no buds 
before August 20th. Some varieties will not 
produce good blooms from buds taken at 
that date, but they are few. When a crown 
bud is formed early in August and is not 
taken, the branch that is let grow will pro- 
duce what is called a second crown bud. 
This differs slightly from the first crown bud 
in having short terminal growths about it, 
and they show buds at the same time as the 
crown bud; almost as soon as the latter can 
be seen. This second crown bud will gener- 
ally make a first-class bloom. While per- 
haps not quite so large as blooms from the 
first crown bud, it will be better finished. 

As the buds are forming, special efforts 
should be made to have the plants free from 
all insects, and also means taken to prevent 
the development of mildew. During the 
last half of August and the first half of 
September the hose should be used freely, 



94 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

although carefully, on the under side of the 
leaves to dislodge any red spider that may 
be lurking there, and measures taken to 
eradicate all aphides; for if allowed to remain 
and work their way into the opening blooms, 
which they will surely do if not destroyed, 
they will ruin the blooms. 

As soon as the buds begin to show the 
first indication of bursting open their scaly 
covering, all syringing and spraying of the 
house must be discontinued. If water is 
allowed to get into the top of the opening 
bloom there is danger of damping or scalding 
the tips of the rays or petals. When the 
blooms are about half open some of the 
petals on one side of the blooms will be found 
to be browned, as though they had been 
scalded by hot water. This has been caused 
by water accumulating there either from 
spraying, the drip from the roof, or con- 
densation caused by too much moisture in 
the atmosphere during cool nights. All 
watering must be done as early in the day as 
possible, and no more water used than can 
possibly be avoided. Abundant ventilation 
must be provided night and day in order to 
keep a good circulation of air above and 







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Plate XXI 




BLACK APHIS ON THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 



Each insect is a pump drawing out the life juices of the plant. The green 
aphis is harder to destroy than the black, but there are means for combat- 
ing both — See Chapter IX. 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 95 

between the plants, being careful, however, 
that during stormy weather rain does not 
get blown in through the ventilators. Ven- 
tilation will also aid in keeping the tempera- 
ture down, which should be as low as possible 
generally. Forty to fifty degrees at night is 
the proper temperature after the buds are 
formed, and while it will frequently be im- 
possible to keep it so low, get it as near those 
figures as possible. If it occasionally goes 
below 40 degrees no harm will be done. 

Many of the red, crimson, and claret 
varieties burn badly, particularly if fed after 
the blooms begin to show colour. Feeding 
of such coloured varieties should be dis- 
continued early, and if they can be placed 
by themselves where a light shading can 
be given them the burning may be pre- 
vented. Bright pink specimens will also be 
benefited by a light shading after the 
blooms are half developed. Shading further 
may prove beneficial in preventing, or at 
least alleviating, damping. This is a trouble 
that affects highly fed and highly developed 
blooms of certain varieties, and is very 
discouraging. The condition is brought 
about by high temperature, accompanied 



96 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

by a considerable degree of humidity when 
chrysanthemums are in flower. It fre- 
quently attacks the finest and most beautiful 
varieties. There is no positive way entirely 
to prevent this condition; the best that can 
be done is to endeavour to relieve it so 
far as possible. Heat appears to be the 
principal cause of the trouble; therefore any 
means that can be used to reduce the tem- 
perature will probably prove beneficial to 
a greater or less degree. If the blooms 
are nearly matured they may be removed 
to some cool storage where abundant venti- 
lation can be given. Keep as dry and as 
cool as possible and remove any damaged 
petals that touch others. 

If it becomes necessary to hold the blooms 
for a week or more after they are matured 
or "finished," they must be removed from the 
house in which they were grown when they 
are about five sixths developed, and put in 
some place where conditions are similar to 
those described in Chapter 11. When the 
plants have been grown in pots or boxes 
they may be removed to the storage room 
and kept in good condition for a month or 
more with very little trouble, an occasional 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 97 

watering and inspection to see that they are 
all right being all that should be needed if 
the conditions are right. 

When the plants have been grown in beds 
or benches the flowers must, of course, be 
cut and stored in some receptacle that will 
contain water. Whatever means are used 
for storing them, the blooms should not be 
crowded. Clean tubs made from half-bar- 
rels, with four strips of wood nailed to the 
sides projecting about two feet above them, 
to which heavy cord or light wire is attached 
from one to the other and across from 
opposite corners, make excellent receptacles 
for storing the blooms. Fill the tubs about 
one third full of water, and place the blooms 
against the supports provided. A tub of 
this kind will hold from twenty-five to forty 
blooms, according to their size and the 
character of the foliage. They should 
always be cut in the early morning or during 
cool, cloudy weather, while the foliage is 
firm, and should be placed in cold water 
immediately. Always cut them with a good 
length of stem, particularly if they are to be 
exhibited in large vases, or if they must be 
kept for considerable time. Three to five 



98 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

feet will not be too much for large flowers 
with good stiff stems. The water in which 
they are kept should be changed at least 
twice each week, when a small piece should 
be cut from the end of each stem. While in 
storage the blooms should be looked over 
and any decaying petals removed. 

SELECTING THE BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITION 

When ready to begin packing, the pro- 
spective exhibitor must himself become a 
judge. He would be unwise to take to the 
exhibition anything but his best blooms, and 
the choice of the best will need some careful 
comparing and selecting. After the number 
to be exhibited has been decided upon, look 
the variety or varieties over carefully, select 
the required number of blooms for a specified 
exhibit, and place them where they can be 
examined in a good light. If the number 
should be twelve, compare them carefully 
and select nine or ten of the best. Then 
get three or four more of the best that 
have been left and compare them with those 
already selected, as sometimes a second 
examination may change your opinion of a 
bloom. It is only by the most rigid inspec- 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS 99 

tion that the best can be selected in many 
instances. After the required number has 
been selected, put aside one or two of the 
best remaining blooms for each exhibit, as 
extra emergency blooms, to be used in case 
of accident to any of the first choice. In 
packing, always put in at least lo per cent, of 
the number to be exhibited in each class, as 
emergency blooms. 

A GUIDE TO THE SECTIONS 

The following analysis of the sections will 
enable any one to properly place any flower. 
In the trade list, the varieties are usually 
grouped under these section headings: 

A. Anemone-flowered forms: rays in one 
series: disk high and rounded 

B. Flowers regular I. Anemone 

BB. Flowers irregular 2. Japanese Anemone 

AA. Double-flowered forms: rays in many 
series: disk absent 

B. Rays reflexed 3. Reflexed 

BB. Rays incurved 

C. Form regular 4. Incurved 

CC. Form more or less irregular 5. Japanese Incurved 

BBB. Rays of various shape; forms various . 6. Japanese 

PACKING THE BLOOMS 

When the blooms are ready to be taken to 
the place of exhibition, and especially when 
they must be sent to a considerable distance 



lOO CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the question of packing them in order to have 
them carry safely, and yet not occupy so 
much space as to make the boxes or packages 
unreasonably bulky and inconvenient for 
handling, will require intelligent and careful 
thought. Unless the packing is thus 
thoroughly done the blooms will, in all 
probability, be ruined for the purpose 
intended, and all the labour that has been 
bestowed upon the plants and blooms 
for the entire season will have been 
wasted. 

There are two good methods of packing 
the blooms, either of which, if properly carried 
out, will get the flowers to their destination in 
good condition. The method generally used 
by florists who exhibit large quantities of 
blooms is the most simple. For this method, 
boxes made of some reasonably light but 
strong material, twenty-four to thirty inches 
wide, fifteen to eighteen inches deep, and 
about six feet long, are best. These boxes 
should first be lined with one thickness of 
heavy, glazed wrapping paper, being careful 
to have the pieces overlap each other to 
exclude air. They should be held in place by 
a few tacks. Then line with from three to 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS lOI 

six thicknesses of newspaper, according to 
the condition of the weather and the distance 
that they have to be transported. Have 
ready some strips of soft wood about one 
inch square for cutting into cleats. When 
the required number of boxes has been pre- 
pared, they should be taken to the storage 
room, or some convenient place that is cool, 
to be packed. 

The blooms should be cut and placed in 
water at least twenty-four hours previous to 
the time that they are to be packed. They 
should be wrapped in tissue paper before 
being packed. For the incurving forms the 
paper should be tied around the stems, just 
below the blooms, and carefully drawn up- 
ward over the top and fastened by tying. 
For the decidedly reflex forms the paper may 
be placed on top of the blooms and drawn 
downward, being tied to the stem below the 
flower. In either case the paper should only 
be drawn sufficiently tight to hold the petals 
firmly. Make some rolls of excelsior about 
three to four inches in diameter and as long 
as the width of the box. Place one of these 
rolls far enough from one end of the box to 
allow room for the largest blooms. Select 



102 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

the largest blooms, and also those having the 
longest stems, that it is desired to have staged, 
for the ends of the boxes. As fast as the 
paper is tied about the blooms, place them 
in the box, allowing the neck of the flower to 
rest on the roll of excelsior, and be sure that 
the latter is sufficiently large to prevent the 
blooms from touching the bottom of the box. 
Place as many blooms side by side as will fill 
the width of the box, then cut off two pieces, 
about six inches long, of the strips of wood 
that have been provided for cleats, and nail 
them perpendicularly, one to each side of the 
box, inside, near the bottom, and from twenty 
to twenty-four inches from the end. Now 
take a thin strip of wood — a lath that 
will just fit across the box will do — and, 
pressing it firmly down on the stems, nail it 
to the two cleats that have been nailed to the 
sides of the box. This is to prevent the 
blooms and stems from shifting in the box. 
If carefully done, two or even three rows of 
blooms may be placed in the box before the 
cross strips are nailed in, making less work 
and also not interfering with packing the 
second and third rows of blooms. After the 
first row is properly placed, put in another 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS IO3 

roll of excelsior and another row of blooms, 
continuing until about one fourth to one 
third of the space in the box is filled. Then 
begin at the other end of the box and repeat 
the operation. This will allow the stems to 
overlap each other at the middle of the box. 
If blooms are to be exhibited in classes calling 
for short stems, the blooms for such classes 
may be packed in the vacant space near the 
centre of the box. 

In packing, it will be well to keep the 
blooms of each variety together; also to 
arrange them so that all that are to be 
exhibited in each class can be unpacked in 
succession. When they are to be unpacked 
by some one other than the packer, the 
blooms intended for the different classes 
should be plainly marked and labelled accord- 
ingly. If the blooms must remain in the 
boxes for any considerable time, the foliage 
of each row should be sprinkled lightly with 
clean, cold water, or, what will be better, lay 
sheets of newspaper that have been moistened 
over each layer of stems, being careful at all 
times to avoid getting any moisture on the 
blooms. 

By the other method of packing, deeper and 



I04 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

larger boxes may be used, and if carefully 
done less danger of damage to the blooms 
will be incurred. The boxes should be 
lined with paper, as for the former method, 
and strips of wood provided for cleats. One 
cleat should be nailed to each side of the 
box, about seven or eight inches from the end 
and at the bottom. A strip of wood should 
be nailed to these, at such a height from the 
bottom that the blooms will be kept from 
touching the bottom of the box when they 
rest upon it. Wrap the blooms in tissue 
paper as before, then place them in the box 
with the neck resting on the cross strip, to 
which they must be tied firmly with cotton 
cord. Another strip may be placed at a 
sufficient distance from the first to allow 
another row of blooms to follow, and the 
packing be continued as in the former de- 
scribed method, the only difference being that 
the strips take the place of the rolls of 
excelsior, and the blooms are tied firmly in 
position. With strips nailed across the box 
to hold the stems in place, the boxes will 
stand considerable rough usage with no 
harm to the blooms. If the box is of suffi- 
cient depth, a second and third tier of blooms 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS IO5 

may be packed above the first, as the cross 
strips will support the entire weight 

The principles to be observed in all meth- 
ods of packing blooms are: making the 
package as light as possible consistent with 
strength, providing sufficient protection 
from extremes of temperature, arranging the 
blooms so that they cannot shift, and pre- 
venting them from suffering from evapora- 
tion without getting the blooms moistened. 
See that covers are securely fastened, and in 
case of using large boxes nail some cleats on 
the outside near the ends for the carriers to 
take hold of. For the smaller boxes a piece 
of rope tied about them will answer the same 
purpose, and will probably save the boxes 
some rough usage. There is but one means of 
transporting the blooms when they must be 
sent over the rails, and that is by express. 

Get receipts from the agent at the point 
from which shipment is made, so that, in case 
of necessity, you can get the boxes upon 
arrival at the point where they must be 
taken from the car. The regular express 
delivery is not always as prompt as necessary 
to get the blooms to the place of exhibition 
in time for staging, and special delivery must 



I06 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

be provided. Aim to have your exhibits all 
staged as soon as possible, and to do this no 
time must be lost at any point of the work. 

STAGING THE BLOOMS 

Upon arrival at the place of exhibition 
get in communication with the secretary and 
the manager of the exhibition as soon as 
possible. From the manager learn where the 
different classes are to be staged, what vases 
are to be used for your exhibits, and where a 
supply of water for filling the vases may be 
had. From the secretary secure the entry 
cards for all of your exhibits. Get some 
vases filled with water and, as fast as the 
blooms can be unpacked, place them in the 
vases. As soon as a vase is filled with the 
required number of blooms place it in the 
position designated by the manager, and, if 
not already done, tie to one of the blooms a 
label with the name of the variety written or 
printed thereon. Get all of the blooms 
unpacked and in water as soon as possible; 
the arranging can be done after the unpack- 
ing is finished. At the chrysanthemum 
exhibitions held in Great Britain the dressing 
of the blooms is an important part of the 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS I07 

Staging operations. This means the remov- 
ing of such petals, with the aid of a pair of 
small tweezers, as tend to make the outline 
of the blooms irregular, and of working petals 
to fill vacancies, the idea being to make the 
blooms as smooth and regular as possible. 
This operation is, fortunately, not practised 
in America. 

When the blooms have all been placed in 
water and labels attached, begin to arrange 
them in each vase in such a manner that each 
flower will show to the best advantage, as it 
is important that all exhibits shall be thus 
displayed. It is each exhibitor's duty not 
only to himself but to the management to 
do so. Much can be done in this way by 
the exhibitors, particularly where collections 
of different varieties are being staged. 
While supports for blooms that can be seen 
above the vase are not allowed, much can be 
done to improve the appearance of a vase of 
blooms when the receptacle happens to be 
larger than is necessary for the number of 
blooms that must be placed therein, as is 
often the case, by putting a wad of paper 
or some other material in the vase to hold 
the stems in the desired position. The 



I08 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

displacement of a single bloom by a few 
inches will often destroy the best effect of a 
vase of flowers. When the exhibit consists 
of a collection of three to twelve vases of 
different varieties, those having the stiffest 
and straightest stems should be placed in the 
centre or at the back, if only one side of the 
stand is open to the view of the visitors, 
placing varieties having shorter and weaker 
stems in front and at the ends. 

The arrangement of the colours in rela- 
tion to one another should also receive 
intelligent consideration. White and yellow 
will most likely be the predominating colours 
and they will harmonize with each other and 
with most other colours, if properly disposed. 
In collections of a given number of varieties, 
"one bloom of each variety," the blooms are 
almost always exhibited with short stems 
and placed singly in small vases, four rows 
deep on the stand or table. In staging such 
an exhibit the largest blooms having the 
strongest stems should be placed at the back, 
and the stems of the back row should be two 
or three inches longer than the next one to 
the front in each row, thus making a gradual 
sloping effect to the collection. Here, also. 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS IO9 

good taste should be displayed in placing 
the colours for the best effect. 

In England there are a great many blooms 
exhibited on what are known as "boards." 
This method of exhibiting is but little used 
in America. The arrangement is to provide 
a small platform, i8 x 24 inches, made so 
that the back is six inches high and the front 
three inches. In this are bored twelve holes, 
three from front to back, and four from end 
to end, at equal distances. These holes are 
fitted with tin tubes for holding water, which 
have a spiral groove. Another tube without a 
bottom and having a funnel-shaped top, 
with a spiral ridge fitting into the groove of 
the larger tube, is used. The blooms are 
placed in the smaller tube and the stem is 
wedged fast; then the small tube is placed in 
position in the larger one, and, by means of 
the spiral arrangement, can be placed at any 
desired height. This method has never been 
popular in this country, although the man- 
agers of many exhibitions include one or two 
small classes for it in their schedules. 

The showing of blooms with long stems is 
the popular method of exhibiting in America, 
and when vases of from twenty-five to one 



no CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

hundred blooms of one colour are well ar- 
ranged they produce an effect that is truly 
magnificent. For arranging such exhibits, 
the blooms must have stems from three to 
five feet long. Vases of chrysanthemums, 
with other material arranged for eff'ect, are 
a prominent feature of most exhibitions. 
Here simple combinations of colour are 
generally most pleasing. One variety of 
chrysanthemum, with some well-coloured 
autumn leaves, is often successfully used. 
One of the prettiest arrangements that I have 
ever seen was a vase of medium-sized flowers 
of a white variety interspersed with sprays 
of Berheris Thunbergii. The bright scarlet 
berries of the barberry in contrast with the 
white chrysanthemums produced a beautiful 
effect, and won the premier prize in keen 
competition. 

ETHICS OF EXHIBITING 

Before going to the exhibition endeavour 
to understand as thoroughly as possible 
the principles upon which such affairs are 
generally based, and, in particular, the one 
in which you propose to take part. Also 
study the specific rules and conditions under 



GROWING EXHIBITION BLOOMS III 

which the exhibition is held. If there is 
anything that is not clear, or that has an 
appearance of unfairness, try to get from 
some official source an explanation of the 
matter. If such explanation is not sat- 
isfactory, either take note of it and seek for 
further information or do not make your 
proposed exhibits. Endeavour to have a 
clean start, then conform to the rules your- 
self, and, in fairness to yourself, see that your 
competitors do the same in all matters of 
importance. If the results are not as you 
hoped and believed they would be, accept 
them philosophically and manfully, unless 
there should be some flagrantly erroneous 
decision, under which circumstances a pro- 
test entered in accordance with the rules and 
in a gentlemanly manner is the privilege of 
every exhibitor. Such instances are very 
rare, however, and while decisions may some- 
times appear wrong, they are almost always 
attributable to honest difference of opinion. 



CHAPTER VII 
Growing for Commercial Purposes 

An important branch of horticultural industry — Selling your 
plants — Growing for cut blooms — Packages for shipping — 
Packing — Growing small bush plants — Best form of plants 
for plant decorations — Stock plants — Decorating — Importing 

The chrysanthemum occupies an impor- 
tant place in horticultural industry. Owing 
to the fact that it gives but one crop of 
flowers annually, and does not occupy the 
house in which it is grown more than five or 
six months of the year, it is not considered as 
a permanent source of income. 

It is diflicult to get positive information as 
to the amount of greenhouse space devoted 
to the growing of plants for market. From 
such information as is available, gathered by 
the United States Department of Agriculture 
at Washington, the amount paid to the retail 
dealers in the Unites States for chrysanthe- 
mum plants and flowers during the season of 
1906 was not far below the million-dollar 
mark. Unlike that of the rose, carnation, 

112 



Plate XXII 











^Mk^.-r \{^ j4i*BBH 






W^' 









As the rose is the queen of garden flowers, so the chrysanthemum is the 
queen of winter flowers, indoors 




It is a delight to arrange chrysanthemums. Their beauty blends in in- 
numerable ways with the foliage of all the most effective ferns, palms and 
other house plants 

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM IN INTERIOR DECORATION 



Plate XXIII 




A BUSH ANEMONE 

One of the most popular chrysanthemums for house culture is the large- 
flowered anemone, grown as a bush. This is a white variety, Garza 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES II3 

and violet, the season for selling the chrys- 
anthemum flowers is short, three months, 
October, November, and December being 
the only ones in which the flowers can be had 
for sale. There is, however, another source 
of income from the chrysanthemum, but it 
is available to a very limited number of 
florists. This is from the sales of young 
plants. Thousands of these are sold each 
year from the first of January to the first of 
June. They are mostly new varieties, either 
the production of American hybridizers or 
importations from foreign sources. 

The greater portion of these plants is 
sold by the large commercial and importing 
establishments to other large commercial 
establishments that grow the plants for cut 
flowers only. The small retail florists and 
gardeners in charge of private places absorb 
a considerable quantity, the balance being 
sold by the large seed and plant dealers 
through their mail trade. 

PACKING YOUNG PLANTS 

As a considerable quantity of the young 
stock sold must be shipped during the months 
of January, February, and March, the matter 



114 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

of packing them to prevent freezing must be 
properly understood, and the details at- 
tended to carefully. Packages weighing 
more than four pounds cannot be sent by 
mail; consequently when plants in consid- 
erable quantity are to be shipped they must 
be forwarded by express. First see that the 
soil in which the plants are growing is rea- 
sonably moist; if not, it must be made so. 
Pieces of paper, about four inches longer than 
the entire length of the plant and ball of soil, 
and wide enough to go twice around the plant, 
should be provided. Turn the plants out of 
the pots, which should not exceed two and 
one half inches at this stage, lay them on 
the piece of paper so that about two inches 
of it extends beyond the plant and soil at 
each end, roll the plant In the paper, and 
fold the lower end to hold it In position, 
leaving the top end open. Then line a good 
wooden box, of the approximate size required 
for the number of plants to be shipped, with a 
thickness of heavy, glazed wrapping paper, 
making sure that the pieces overlap each 
other well. Next put In one or two thick- 
nesses of heavy felt paper, or else the same 
quantity of cotton batting. And after that 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES II5 

from five to ten thicknesses of newspaper, 
according to the severity of the weather. 
When several varieties are to be packed in one 
box, some means must be used to enable the 
person who unpacks them to distinguish the 
varieties. 

When from two to five plants of one 
variety are sent, probably the best method 
will be to wrap them in other paper with a 
piece of cord about it, thus making them 
into a loose bundle that can be packed flat. 
When several of one variety are sent, the 
kinds may be kept separate by making 
divisions with heavy paper that will not tear 
easily. At least one label must go with each 
variety, and the number of plants of that 
variety should be written on it. Layers of 
excelsior may also be used to enable the 
varieties to be distinguished, and in large 
boxes a layer of this material on the bottom 
and between each two layers of plants may 
prove beneficial. Place the plants closely 
and firmly together, with the ball of soil 
against the end of the box. When the first 
row has been placed, begin another, with the 
plants in the same relative position, but 
with the tops in the opposite direction, and 



Il6 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

continue until a layer has been placed over the 
entire bottom; then begin another layer, 
placing the plants in the opposite direction to 
that in which the first layer was placed. 
Continue until the box is full or the plants 
are all packed. Should there be any vacant 
space it must be filled with excelsior or some 
other material, as keeping the plants firmly 
in the position in which they are placed is 
the most important point to be observed 
in packing. Boxes more than twelve inches 
deep should not be used. 

In warm weather a different method must 
be employed. Packed as above advised, 
the plants would almost surely heat if kept 
in the box for more than twenty-four hours, 
and would be spoiled. The plants should 
have the paper wrapping about the ball of 
soil only, and the box will need no lining. If 
the time likely to be occupied in transit is not 
more than three or four days, select a box 
that is a few inches deeper than the extreme 
height of the plants, stand the plants upright 
as closely as possible, and, after three or four 
rows have been placed, put a strip across the 
box, pressing the plants together as tightly as 
possible. Continue until the bottom of the 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES II7 

box is covered, then nail strips across the top, 
leaving spaces from one to two inches be- 
tween the strips. If this work is done prop- 
erly, even if the box be turned upside down, 
the plants will remain undisturbed. When 
the plants must be a long time in transit, 
the best plan for packing is to use a shallow 
box having strong cleats nailed in each 
corner a few inches higher than the plants. 
Nail a strip to the top of the cleats at the 
ends of the box, then pack the plants as 
before, and nail strips from the two end 
strips on top, leaving spaces between. This 
will leave the plants open at the sides and 
on top, allowing a free circulation of air 
about them. It may be advisable to nail 
a strip to the cleats at each side as a 
protection. 

SHIPPING BY MAIL 

In preparing plants for shipment by mail 
they must be protected from cold as thor- 
oughly as when shipping by express, but 
the boxes will necessarily be quite small, and 
should be made of thin, light material. The 
soil should be carefully washed from the 
roots of the plants and the roots have a 



Il8 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

small amount of damp moss wrapped about 
them. Labels made from some tough paper 
cut in strips, with a slit in one end through 
which the other end is drawn, thus forming a 
slip-noose, may be put around the plants. 
A lining of cotton and waxed paper only 
should be used inside of the box, which must 
be covered with cotton and as many thick- 
nesses of paper on the outside as the weather 
conditions demand. Mark all packages 
plainly with the name and address of 
the consignee and in such manner that it 
cannot be lost. Also mark them all 
prominently with the legend, "Perishable 
plants. Keep from heat and cold. Deliver 
promptly." 

PACKING PLANTS FOR EXPORT 

"In packing for export," says Smith's 
"Chrysanthemum Manual," "there are two 
systems employed, one for the winter months, 
when they are packed tight, the other for 
summer, providing plenty of light and air 
for the plants. When packed close, exces- 
sive moisture is to be strongly guarded 
against. Under such conditions the plants 
are sure to rot if they remain packed more 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES II 9 

than six days. There is sufficient moisture 
in the plant itself to retain vitality for some 
time, and whatever is used to fill up inter- 
vening spaces must be perfectly dry. Moss, 
excelsior, and cocoanut fibre are the best 
materials for filling. 

* 'Plants that are to be exported should be 
put into a cold, airy house for a week or ten 
days, and watered very sparingly, in order to 
harden the wood. If packed too soft they 
generally perish. Before placing in the 
boxes remove most of the foliage, as it is 
very apt to die and cause decay. The balls 
of earth should be wrapped in dry moss and 
tied securely. Place the plants in an upright 
position on the bottom of the box, using a 
cleat to each row; in this manner they are 
held securely in the desired position. If the 
weather is severe, protection against frost 
will be necessary, and may be provided as 
previously described. In hot weather the 
same method of packing is employed, with 
the exception that wet moss is used, wrapping 
each ball with wax paper. Holes are bored 
through the sides of the box to admit light 
and air. The holes are generally covered 
on the inside with wire screen to prevent 



I20 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

mice damaging the plants while on ship- 
board. 

"Small foreign shipments are sometimes 
made by removing the soil and placing the 
plants in tin boxes, filling the intervening 
spaces with dry cocoanut fibre or moss. It 
is very important, when packed in this 
manner, that all the leaves be removed except 
those undeveloped at the top. If the plants 
have been hardened there will be little loss. 
It is easy to test a system of packing by pre- 
paring a shipment, putting it aside, and open- 
ing it after a period of time equivalent to that 
required for transit to the proposed des- 
tination, and noting the condition; or pot up 
the plants and determine how many will 
survive." 

GROWING FOR CUT BLOOMS 

Growing the plants for cut blooms, whether 
for wholesale or retail trade, may be done 
with reasonable assurance of fair profit if 
good, economical business methods are used. 
If the purpose is to grow for the wholesale 
market, the grower should, if possible, locate 
near some large city, where there is likely to 
be a good and steady market for his product. 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 121 

Growers that are located a long distance 
from their markets are considerably handi- 
capped, notwithstanding the many present- 
day conveniences of telegraph, telephone, 
and fast express trains. The blooms may 
be shipped long distances with perfect safety, 
but the grower cannot take advantage of 
any increased demand or price as well as 
if located within a short distance of his 
market. Convenient and readily available 
shipping facilities are also an important 
consideration in growing for the wholesale 
market. If the distance is so great that it is 
not practicable to deliver the blooms by horse 
and wagon, a good railroad express is a 
necessity. While it may seldom be necessary 
to do so, the grower should be so located 
that he can deliver flowers to his customer 
within two or three hours from the receipt 
of an order. 

When blooms are to be grown for the 
wholesale market, the percentage of profit 
will generally increase proportionately with 
the number of blooms grown. When grown 
in large quantities, large houses may be used, 
and the labour and all other expenses will be 
proportionately less than for a small estab- 



122 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

lishment. The method of growing the 
blooms for market will not diifer materially 
from that advised for growing exhibition 
blooms, but the varieties should be carefully 
selected, growing only those that the market 
demands. Comparatively few of the odd or 
mixed colours will sell. Good self-colours 
of white, yellow, and pink are what are re- 
quired. Good stems and foliage are also 
demanded, and for convenience in growing, 
varieties of dwarf-habit and short-jointed 
growth should be selected. The blooms 
should be firmly built and of good sub- 
stance. Some of the most beautiful va- 
rieties are rarely if ever seen in the large 
florists' stores, for the reason that the blooms 
lack sufiicient substance to stand shipment 
without damage. Such varieties can be used 
profitably only by those who sell their prod- 
uct directly to the consumer. 

While it will seldom be found profitable to 
give as much attention to the plants in the 
matter of feeding as has been advised for 
exhibition blooms, the plants must receive 
practically the same treatment in all other 
respects. Early and mid-season varieties 
should be grown from crown buds generally, 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 123 

but for late varieties the terminal bud will 
be best. Except in the case of the very early 
varieties, when there is a demand for the 
blooms, and prices are high, they should not 
be cut until they are fully matured, as they 
will ship better and give more satisfaction 
to the dealers and their customers. 

Some time before any of the blooms are 
ready to cut, an arrangement should be made 
with one or more commission men or retail- 
ers to take the entire crop of blooms, receiv- 
ing a certain amount of them each day. If 
the blooms are good, and you have enough to 
be able to ship a considerable quantity each 
day, you will have little difficulty in finding 
customers for your crop. It is good policy 
to keep in close touch with the commission 
man during the shipping season, and always 
send promptly whatever amount of blooms 
has been agreed upon, or any that may be 
required for special orders. Blooms should 
always be cut and stood in water for at least 
twenty-four hours before being shipped. 
The best grades of blooms should be cut with 
stems from two to four feet long. 

When cut blooms are to be shipped to 
market, convenient packages must be pro- 



124 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

vided for carrying them. Some growers ship 
them in boxes of any cheap kind that can be 
obtained, that answer the purpose, and 
do not have them returned. Where light 
boxes of proper sizes can be obtained cheaply, 
this method may prove economical; but 
generally it will be necessary to provide boxes 
that will last at least for one season's ship- 
ments, and if reasonably well made they may 
last for several seasons. Boxes eighteen inches 
wide, twelve to fifteen inches high, and four 
to five feet long will carry twenty-four first- 
grade blooms, and from thirty to thirty- 
six smaller ones. Smaller sizes of boxes may 
be used for second and third grade blooms. 
The boxes should be bound with light bands 
of hoop iron, and light cleats fastened inside 
at the corners and the centre will strengthen 
the boxes greatly. The covers should be 
fastened by hooks, or hinges and hasp, in 
such a manner that they can be removed 
entirely in packing and unpacking. 

The general principles advised for packing 
exhibition blooms will apply to packing for 
market. It will not be necessary, however, 
to use more than one or two thicknesses of 
paper lining, unless the blooms will be 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 1 25 

several hours in transit. Nor, except for 
some fancy grades of blooms, will it be nec- 
essary to wrap them in tissue paper; a sheet 
of tissue or waxed paper laid over each row 
of blooms before the next row is placed will 
be sufficient. Pack as closely as possible 
without crushing, and hold the stems firmly 
in place by either putting one cleat across 
them after the box is filled or wrapping a 
good-sized roll of excelsior in paper and lay- 
ing it across them in such a manner that the 
cover will press it firmly on them when it is 
fastened in place. 

When the grower has the opportunity to 
sell his flowers at retail he can generally 
realize a larger percentage of profit than 
when he sells at wholesale, but naturally the 
number of blooms that can be disposed of 
will be limited. 

DWARF BUSH PLANTS FOR RETAIL TRADE 

In the larger towns and cities there is 
generally a market for a considerable quan- 
tity of small bush plants grown in six- or 
eight-inch pots. Dwarf-growing varieties 
having stiff stems, and good foliage should be 
chosen for this purpose, and the plants 



126 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

should be propagated in April or early in 
May. They should be stopped when one or 
two inches high and kept stopped as directed 
for specimen bush plants until about the 
middle of July. With good care they should 
make compact plants from twelve to eighteen 
inches high, carrying from twenty to thirty 
nice blooms. They will require but little if 
any staking or tying. The pots may be 
plunged in soil in a bed or bench, if desired, 
to save watering; or the plants may be 
planted in the soil from their first pots, and 
be grown in the bench until after July 15th, 
when they may be lifted and potted. This 
method will produce larger plants than keep- 
ing them in pots all summer, but will require 
larger pots, and they may suffer from the 
disturbance at the time that they must be 
potted, unless given careful attention. 
After potting they should be kept shaded 
from bright sunshine for several days, the 
atmosphere of the house being kept close 
and moist. 

Another form of plant that is very useful 
to the commercial florist is one bearing from 
six to twelve medium-sized blooms that can 
be used in groups of foliage plants at wed- 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 1 27 

dings, receptions, or any private or public 
function. For this purpose the plants may- 
be propagated in May and stopped twice or 
three times. Some of the tall-growing va- 
rieties may well be used for this purpose. 
Part of the plants may be grown without 
disbudding, as the sprays of bloom will be 
more graceful than so many larger blossoms, 
although large blooms may also be used with 
good effect. Many varieties of pompons 
grown in pots, or in benches or even out- 
doors, and lifted and potted, are useful for 
this kind of work. 

Florists located in small towns, where the 
prices paid for large blooms cannot be 
obtained, may produce sufficiently good 
blooms for the majority of their customers 
by growing their plants either in beds or 
benches under glass, or even out of doors 
— lifting and potting them after the buds 
have set — and allowing from three to six 
blooms to a plant. 

Many growers prefer to grow their stock 
plants out of doors, lifting and potting them 
or planting them in boxes before cold 
weather sets in. Where cut blooms are 
grown in considerable quantities some rev- 



128 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

enue may be obtained by selling stock plants. 
As soon as the blooms are cut from a section 
of bed or house, the stock of each of the 
varieties desired to be grown the next year 
should be lifted and potted, or planted in 
boxes that are from four to five inches deep, 
and stored. Surplus stock may be sold if 
a market can be found for it. 

MINIATURE CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Plants that are from ten to fifteen inches 
high may be had with comparatively little 
trouble, and a limited mumber sold at a 
fair profit. Cuttings of the most dwarf- 
growing varieties may be made from the 
middle of July to the middle of August. 
They must be put in a closed frame, kept as 
cool as possible, and given only sufficient 
ventilation to keep the air from becoming 
stagnant and causing damping and fungus. 
If a gentle bottom heat can be maintained 
under the cuttings they will root more 
quickly. Some fermenting stable manure 
will provide such heat. As soon as rooted 
they may be potted into small pots and kept 
in the closed frame for a few days, after 
which they may be gradually hardened by 



Plate XXV 




The garden varieties are not only profuse bloomers but among the hardiest 
of plants as well. They enrich the home indoors and out, after the rest of 
the garden has fallen before the frosts 




When we realize that cosmos, " Black-eyed Susan," the common field daisy 
and the many cultivated forms are all of the same family, our respect for 
the hardy chrysanthemum increases greatly 

SOME GARDEN POSSIBILITIES 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES 1 29 

giving more air and exposing to a little 
direct sunshine each day. 

When they are ready to be repotted, they 
may be put in three and one half- or four- 
inch pots, placing the ball of roots about two 
inches below the rim of the pot. If given 
some liquid feeding, these plants will pro- 
duce five- to six-inch blooms. They may 
also be planted direct from the sand into 
shallow pans, or in five- and six-inch pots, as 
many plants as are desired. Good plants 
may be made up in this manner from late 
June cuttings, putting three to six plants in 
six or eight-inch pots and stopping them once 
or twice. 

ITS GREAT DECORATIVE VALUE 

It is safe to say, without detracting from 
the beauty and value of any other species of 
flower, that, during its season of bloom, there 
is nothing that can compete with the chrys- 
anthemum in rich, massive, gorgeous, 
decorative value. It can be used anywhere 
that flowers are required,and for any purpose; 
and the florist or gardener who has decora- 
tive work of any kind to do during the 
chrysanthemum season is not doing himself 



130 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

and his patrons justice if he does not use it 
freely, and, if the circumstances warrant, 
lavishly. For the simple decoration of the 
home, plants in six-inch pots grown to 
single stem and bloom are excellent, placed 
either singly or in groups of separate colours. 
Small bush plants are also very pretty placed 
here and there throughout the halls, library, 
and reception rooms. 

Cut blooms, either large or small according 
to the size of the apartment, will give a 
touch of beauty to any place. For bedrooms 
small or medium-sized blooms should always 
be used. Large, massive blooms may be 
used with grand effect in large halls and 
reception rooms. For the dinner table, 
whether it is large or small, the blooms may 
be arranged with infinite variety, and are al- 
ways attractive if tastefully and effectively 
arranged. For large tables large blooms may 
be used, either in tall vases, bringing the 
blooms above the line of vision, or in low 
receptacles of various kinds that will allow a 
fiat, but nevertheless beautiful, arrange- 
ment; or a combination of the two may be 
used effectively. For small tables the smaller 
blooms are more appropriate; in fact, the 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES I3I 

large blooms appear incongruous on small 
tables. The many beautiful varieties of pom- 
pons are very desirable for this latter purpose. 
It is, however, in decorating large dwell- 
ings and churches for weddings, receptions, 
and other important social functions, and 
halls and such places of public assembly, that 
the chrysanthemum is seen in all its glory. 
Here the plants can be used among great 
groups of palms and other foliage plants, 
and large vases of long-stemmed blooms may 
be displayed with magnificent effect. In 
addition they may be tied in bunches and 
festoons over altar and chancel rail, mirrors, 
doorways, and windows. In fact, they may 
be used anywhere that flov/ers can be placed 
in order to transform the interior into 
a bower of beauty. When employed in 
such manner the effect will in most cases 
leave a lasting impression on the minds of 
the spectators, and will in all probability 
strengthen their love for the beautiful as 
embodied in the form of flowers and plants. 

IMPORTING 

Many of the best varieties in cultivation 
at the present time have been imported 



132 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

from other countries, England, France, 
and Australia being the sources of practi- 
cally the entire supply. If it is desired 
to make importations, the prospective 
importer must get in communication with 
dealers or hybridizers in either country and 
make such negotiations as will secure the 
desired varieties. The plants are generally 
dried and weakened by the time occupied in 
transit, and great care will have to be given 
them in order to save the little life that is 
left. They should be unpacked and placed 
in warm water immediately and allowed to 
remain there for an hour or more, until the 
roots have become freshened, when they may 
be potted, using the smallest pots the roots 
can be gotten into, and soil composed of one 
third each of sand, fresh loam, and leaf 
mould, to which should be added a good 
sprinkling of charcoal, broken fine. The 
pots should then be placed in a closed case, 
plunged in sand, and a gentle bottom heat 
maintained under them until they have 
started to grow nicely. While the case 
should be kept reasonably close, sufficient 
ventilation must be given to prevent the 
development of fungi. Very little water 



GROWING FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES I33 

should be given until the plants have started 
growth and roots, and even then great care 
must be used in applying it. The plants 
must be carefully nursed, and constantly 
watched, until the growth is sufficiently 
strong to remove as cuttings. Similar treat- 
ment may be accorded to desirable varie- 
ties that make weak growth. 



CHAPTER VIII 

Production of New Varieties 

Uncertainty of results — Cross-fertilization — Sports, or bud 
variations 

With chrysanthemums, as with every other 
cultivated plant, the art of creating new, dif- 
ferent forms and varieties is rich in fascina- 
tion and interest. Not only may the results 
bring us great rewards both sesthetically 
and financially, but the actual processess 
of plant breeding carry us into the deep and 
marvellous realms of Nature's mysteries. 
My own experience in this line of work hav- 
ing been limited, I am fortunate in being 
able to present upon this subject the views 
and the conclusions, after years of practice, 
of Mr. Elmer D. Smith, one of the most 
prominent and successful of all American 
raisers and breeders of chrysanthemums. 

Before entering upon the details of this 
subject let us consider some of the natural 
conditions which have more or less influence 

134 



PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES I35 

upon our results. Dame Nature says the 
chrysanthemum shall be single, and reproduce 
itself from seed, so in producing these marvel- 
lous flowers with almost countless petals we 
are working in direct opposition to her laws. 
In some of our improved varieties we are 
prevented from making fufther improve- 
ments owing to the pistils or styles being 
abortive; and in others the staminate florets 
provide little or no pollen. 

In cross-fertilization, the operator's desire 
is to improve the chief characteristics, such 
as colour, size, form, and fullness. It is 
beyond all human power to obtain exact 
results in uniting or mixing the colours of 
petals. Pollen of a white flower applied to a 
red may give red, white, or any intermediate 
shade representing the many varieties of 
pink. The union of red and yellow gives 
similar results, producing red, yellow, and all 
the intermediate shades of brown and tan. 
We have more assurance when varieties of 
the same colours are crossed. Improve- 
ments in colour can only be attained by 
bearing in mind the laws of nature in making 
these unions. The chrysanthemum has a 
great tendency to revert to its antecedents. 



136 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Hence It is that we get many strangers when 
two of the same colour are crossed. The 
variety, Mrs. J. J. Glessner, yellow, came 
from Edward Hatch and Mrs. Jerome 
Jones, both white or nearly so. This seed- 
ling partook of the parentage of Edward 
Hatch, which was Gloriosum, yellow, and 
Ada Spaulding, pink. In this connection I 
would suggest to my reader, and urge the 
study of, a little book entitled ''Mendelism," 
by Punnett. 

Form, size, and fullness are improved only 
by careful consideration of these qualifica- 
tions in varieties at our disposal. We are 
more certain of advancement in the style of 
growth, securing those which are dwarf and 
sturdy, by confining our operations to such as 
possess these qualities. Large and small 
foliage can be produced by using those 
having these peculiarities. What governs 
the potency of the pistillate and staminate 
parents we cannot determine. We are deal- 
ing with minute affairs. The stigma may 
scarcely have reached maturity when the 
pollen is applied, or the pollen may have 
passed its prime with the stigma at the 
height of development. These varied con- 



PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 1 37 

ditions exert some influence In establishing 
the character of the seedling. 

In selecting varieties for this work the two 
classes for consideration are those for exhibi- 
tion and for commercial use. In the former, 
size is the most important factor, if the other 
qualifications are up to the average. The 
commercial grower requires staple colours, 
and the purer the colour the better. Size, 
form, fullness, and style of growth are 
important and should be taken into con- 
sideration. 

SEED PLANTS 

Our experience leads us to believe that 
single stem plants in four-inch pots, grown 
naturally without an abundance of nourish- 
ment, are best suited for this purpose. They 
produce fewer ray florets; hence pollen is 
easier to gather. The styles in flowers thus 
treated seem to be in better condition, or at 
least more normal, and produce seed more 
freely. We have arrived at these deductions 
by endeavouring to procure seed from plants 
grown for exhibition, and in nearly every 
case our efforts have been fruitless. Plants 
intended for seed raising should be staged in 



138 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS 



a dry, light house, and excessive moisture 
at the roots or in the atmosphere should 
be avoided. 

FERTILIZING OR PGLLENIZING 

The operation begins when the flowers are 
half open by cutting the petals off close to 




C 



f 



Diagramatic and enlarged ray and disc florets illustrating the 
parts involved in fertilization. A — Style or stalk of pistil: B — 
Stigma or receiving surface of pistil; C — Anther or pollen-distrib- 
uting sac of stamen; D — Ovary containing E — Ovule or seed; 
F — Filament or stalk of stamen. 



the base with a pair of scissors, until the 
styles are exposed. In the accompanying 
diagram, which represents enlarged ray and 



PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES 1 39 

disc florets, i is the petal which fur- 
nishes the colour. This is provided with 
a style or pistil, and when in condition, 
or fully expanded, is in proper condition to 
receive the pollen which is applied to the 
upper surface (B), known as the stigma. 
The disc floret (2) also has a style, but is 
provided with stamens (C), which furnish 
the pollen. These should be removed from 
the seed plant with the points of the scissors, 
to prevent self-fertilization. After the 
flower head has been trimmed, select the 
desired flower for pollen. Push aside the 
ray florets or petals until the disc florets are 
in view. Collect the dust-like pollen on a 
camel's hair pencil or toothpick and apply 
to the stigmas of the flowers previously pre- 
pared. This completes the operation. How 
fertilization takes place is fully described 
by Prof. Bentley in his "Manual of Botany": 
"When the pollen falls upon the stigma its 
intine protudes through one or more pores 
of the extine in the form of a delicate tube 
which penetrates through the cells of the 
stigma, by the viscid secretions of which it is 
nourished. These pollen tubes continue to 
elongate by growth and pass down the con- 



140 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ducting tissue of the canal of the style, and thus 
reach the ovary, where the seed is formed." 

If a toothpick is employed never use it 
for more than one kind of pollen. By allow- 
ing the camel's hair pencil to stand in an 
open-mouthed vial of alcohol for a few 
moments after using, it may, when dry, be 
used upon another variety without danger 
of the former operation affecting the present 
one. Pollenizing should be done on bright, 
sunny days, as far as possible. In wet 
weather a dry, warm house can be utilized, 
and the work continued each day, provided 
sufficient pollen is at hand. On bright days 
pollen is generally very abundant, and may 
be collected, stored in vials, and labelled ready 
for use. If kept perfectly dry, this pollen 
will retain its vitality throughout the chrys- 
anthemum season. After fertilization give 
the plants only sufficient water to keep them 
from wilting. Always keep a record of the 
work, showing the parents of the seedlings. 
It will afford pleasure to know how a mer- 
itorious variety was produced, and may 
suggest possibilities along other lines. 

Seeds ripen in five or six weeks. Plants 
fertilized early in the season give the greatest 



PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES I4I 

number of seeds, due, doubtless, to more 
favourable weather at that time. Do not 
anticipate superabundance of seed. The 
crosses which give but few seeds generally 
produce the best seedlings. Hand-pollen- 
ized seeds are of more value than those 
naturally pollenized by the wind or insects. 
It at least seems rational to expect more 
from seed secured by the union of our best 
kinds than from that produced by the wind 
without intent, or the bee, whose only object 
is to secure her daily sustenance. If this be 
true, the results of our work depend upon 
the degree of intelligence employed in the 
selection of parents and the thoroughness 
with which the accomplishment of every 
detail is attended. 

SEEDLINGS 

The seeds should be sown as soon as they 
are ripe, using pots, pans, or shallow boxes. 
They should be covered lightly and kept in 
a temperature of about 60 degrees until they 
have germinated. If kept in so high a 
temperature the seedlings are quite likely to 
damp off; at the first indication of such a 
condition move them to a more airy place. 



142 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

As soon as they have made their second pair 
of characteristic leaves, prick them off into 
shallow boxes, about an inch apart. When 
they show signs of crowding they should be 
potted separately and repotted as often as 
necessary or planted into the bench, the same 
as in the case of ordinary plants that have 
been grown from cuttings. They will flower 
the first year from seed, and there is nothing 
more interesting than to look over a large 
lot of seedlings and note the diversity of 
form and colour. After the planted seedlings 
are established, nip out the tops and allow 
two breaks to come up and flower, and, as 
far as possible, select a crown or early bud 
on one of these, and terminal or late bud on 
the other; thus we gain some knowledge at 
the very first year as to which bud produces 
the better flower. Those that are considered 
desirable maybe saved and given further trial. 

SPORTS 

The word ''sport" in connection with 
chrysanthemums refers to varieties that 
originate from bud varieties. (By " bud 
varieties" is meant that one or more buds, 
generally only one, of a certain variety may 



PIIOBUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES I43 

produce a flower of a different colour, as a bud 
of a white variety producing a pink or yellow 
flower.) Occasionally a variety will sport 
the first or second year after its origin from 
seed, but generally it does not take place 
until several years have elapsed, and then 
often simultaneously in remote localities. 
This has occurred in this country, the most 
marked case being that of Mrs. Jerome 
Jones sporting to yellow. 

It need not surprise any one cultivating 
chrysanthemums to notice a plant producing 
flowers of two distinct colours. Sometimes 
the sport flowers will be one half the original 
colour (the flower being of two colours), 
and again possibly another bloom will be 
of the new colour entire. It has been 
reported that plants sometimes sport in 
form — that is, give a flower of entirely 
different form from that originally possessed, 
such as an incurved variety sporting to a 
reflexed form. Such cases are, at least, few 
and far between. In fact, we are inclined 
to disbelieve that such changes have really 
taken place. Cultural conditions often 
change the form of flowers materially, and 
also the kind of bud selected; doubtless 



144 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

some of the cases reported were due 
simply to these causes. 

To perpetuate the new colour of the plant 
that has sported, the method generally 
followed is to cut out the leaf on the flower- 
ing wood with a heel or portion of the stem, 
and place these under a bell-glass or closed 
frame to induce them to make roots, after 
which they send forth new growth. These 
are planted the next season, and if any pos- 
sess the original colour they are discarded 
and those of the new colour saved. Gen- 
erally in the course of two or three seasons 
it is safe to consider the new variety estab- 
lished and the colour, as it is termed, fixed. 

HOW SEEDLINGS ARE JUDGED 

The Chrysanthemum Society of America 
each year appoints committees, composed 
of three expert judges of chrysanthemums, 
to meet in the more important, prominent 
cities of the country, on appointed dates, 
notice of such meetings being given in all 
the weekly floricultural publications, to pass 
judgment upon any seedlings, sports, or new 
importations that may be brought before 
them. The decisions of these committees 



PRODUCTION OF NEW VARIETIES I45 

are also published, and the results are placed 
on record with the secretary of the organiza- 
tion. The society has adopted scales of 
points for the guidance of these committees 
in determining the value of the different 
classes of blooms. The official scales of the 
C.S.A. are as follows: 

For commercial purposes. Points 

Colour 20 

Form 15 

Fullness 10 

Stem 15 

Foliage 15 

Substance 15 

Size 10 

Total 100 



For exhibition purposes. Points 

Colour 10 

Stem S 

Foliage 5 

Fullness 15 

Form 15 

Depth 15 

Size 35 

Total 100 



CHAPTER IX 
Insects, Diseases, and Remedies 

Aphides — Red Spider — Grasshoppers — Caterpillars — Leaf- 
spot — Mildew — Rust 

While the chrysanthemum is subject to 
the depredations of several species of insects 
and fungi, fortunately there is none that 
may not be overcome without serious 
injury to the plants if the grower will give 
vigilant attention to the matter, and use 
such preventive and destructive measures 
as are available. 

The most common, pernicious, and persis- 
tent insect enemy is the green aphis. The 
black aphis is also quite common, but is 
easily destroyed by the means recommended 
for the green aphis. This latter species 
works its way into the folds of the young 
leaves as they are developing, and is 
with difficulty reached with either liquids 
or fumes, without injury to the young 
growth. The grower must be constantly 
146 



INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES I47 

on the watch for this insect, and must 
be persistent in using means to destroy it, 
as it will soon do serious harm to the young 
growth. Fumigating with tobacco stems 
has until recently been the orthodox remedy, 
and is still used to considerable extent. 
The stems must be kept moist while being 
burned to prevent them from being con- 
sumed too rapidly; otherwise the plants are 
likely to be damaged. The fumigating is 
better for being done in the evening and, if 
possible, when the weather is cool. Just 
how heavy the fumigation should be can 
be determined only by experience; but the 
beginner may soon learn how much to apply 
by giving the plants a fumigation three 
nights in succession, making the smoke 
quite thin, so that objects can be seen across 
the house the first time, increasing the 
amount the second night, and, if the aphis 
is not destroyed, increasing still more the 
third evening. 

Of recent years there have been placed on 
the market by different manufacturers 
various preparations of nicotine, which are 
more convenient and pleasant to use, al- 
though probably somewhat more expensive. 



148 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Directions for its use accompanies each of 
them. Dusting the points of the plants, 
while wet, with tobacco dust is an effective 
remedy. This also should be applied at 
night or during cloudy days, and should be 
washed off with the hose and spray after a 
few hours. Various liquid insecticides may 
be used by spraying the plants with them. 
Special efforts should be made to eradicate 
this insect entirely at the time that the 
buds are forming, as if any of them are 
on the plants then they will work un- 
der the scales of the buds and eventually 
into the blooms, which will surely be 
ruined. 

Red spider is an enemy for the existence 
of which on chrysanthemum plants there 
can be no excuse, provided a supply of water 
is available and the means to apply it to the 
under side of the leaves with reasonable 
force. This is the best remedy of all for 
this insect, and, as the chrysanthemum 
makes its growth at a season of the year 
when water can be used freely, should prove 
an effective remedy. As with the aphis, 
pains should be taken to have the plants 
absolutely free from spider before the buds 



INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES I49 

begin to open, as then syringing must be 
discontinued, and if any of the insects are 
lurking on the plants they will soon spread 
to the blooms, with disastrous results. In 
case the plants should become badly in- 
fested with spider, or if there is any appear- 
ance of its existence on the plants just before 
the buds begin to open, they should be 
thoroughly sprayed on both sides of the 
leaves with a solution of whale-oil soap. 
One pound of soap should be dissolved in 
one or two gallons of boiling water. When 
thoroughly dissolved, dilute to make ten 
gallons of solution. Ivory soap may be used 
in the same manner if preferable, or any of 
the manufactured insecticides that are on 
the market employed according to direc- 
tions. The spraying must be thoroughly done. 

THRIPS, GRASSHOPPERS, AND CATERPILLARS 

Thrips are sometimes quite troublesome, 
but the fumigations for aphides and the 
syringings for red spider will generally de- 
stroy them. Grasshoppers frequently find 
their way into the houses in considerable 
numbers, and do serious damage by eating 
off the points of the growing shoots. Catch- 



150 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ing and destroying them is the only remedy. 
Several species of butterflies and moths lay 
eggs on the leaves of the chrysanthemum, 
and the young caterpillars do considerable 
damage to the foliage. They rarely become 
serious, however, and picking them off by 
hand will generally be sufficient. Should 
they become serious, the leaves may be 
sprayed with arsenate of lead in solution at 
the rate of one ounce to three gallons of water. 

THE TARNISHED PLANT BUG 

Where chrysanthemums are grown out of 
doors this insect becomes a serious pest. 
Probably the first indication of its presence 
will be the wilting of the young leaves at the 
growing tips of the shoots. Upon examina- 
tion they will appear to be covered with 
small, brownish spots, and the stems will 
show the same appearance. If careful 
search is made a small, flat bug of greenish 
or brownish-yellow colour will be seen dodg- 
ing about the plants in an effort to keep out 
of sight. The adult is brownish-yellow, and 
will probably fly away if disturbed. The 
young bugs are greenish-yellow, and are 
unable to fly. They are difficult to catch, 



INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES I51 

however, as they jump about very quickly. 
They injure the plants by puncturing the 
young leaves and stems and sucking the 
juices, the spots being caused by this action. 
Often the entire point of the shoot will 
be checked, causing it to go blind. A 
thorough spraying with whale-oil soap solu- 
tion,- of the strength recommended for red 
spider, will destroy the young bugs and tend 
to drive away the old ones. If the plants 
are in a compact mass, or near some build- 
ing, they may be covered with mosquito net- 
ting to prevent the bugs from getting at them. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM BEE-FLY 

What is known as the chrysanthemum 
bee-fly makes its appearance in the autumn 
about the time that the flowers of the chrys- 
anthemums are fully open, and feeds from 
the pollen of the flowers. This has a very 
decided resemblance to the common black 
honey bee, hence its name. It does no harm 
beyond soiling a few of the petals. 

FUNGOUS DISEASES 

Leaf-spot is a disease that attacks the 
older foliage of the plants and causes serious 



152 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

injury when allowed to spread. This disease 
is generally induced by unhealthy con- 
ditions surrounding the plants, or some 
constitutional weakness of the plants them- 
selves. If the plants are kept too wet during 
cold, cloudy weather, and at night, or if 
weakened by growing in a close atmosphere 
without sufficient ventilation, the disease is 
likely to attack them. Strong-growing 
varieties that are given proper treatment 
are rarely attacked. Hence preventive 
measures are the most effective means of 
combating the disease. Various fungi- 
cides have been advocated by different 
growers as remedies for this, as well as for 
the rust, each grower, perhaps, recommending 
a different remedy, just as many cures are 
offered for the same human ill. I am fully 
convinced that good cultural methods, com- 
bined with rigid selection of stock for prop- 
agating purposes, are the most effective 
means of keeping plants of any kind in good 
health; just as healthy breeding, good sani- 
tary and hygienic conditions, combined with 
intelligent diet and exercise, are the best 
means of preventing disease of the human 
race. 



INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 1 53 

That scientific research tends to confirm 
the truth of this conclusion is evinced by- 
extracts from a paper read before the mem- 
bers of the Chrysanthemum Society of 
America at the convention held in New York 
City, November ii, 1903, by Professor 
George E. Stone, of the Hatch Experiment 
Station, Massachusetts. "Most growers," he 
says, " are familiar with the chrysanthemum 
rust, although I have no doubt that some of 
you have had no personal experience with 
it. The rust occurs as small blisters, usually 
on the under side of the leaves. These 
blisters eventually break open, exposing a 
brownish, powdery mass. This powdery 
substance constitutes the uredospores, which 
are the only spores known to be produced by 
this fungus in this country. The first 
appearance of the chrysanthemum rust in 
America, so far as is known, occurred in 
Massachusetts during the fall of 1896. . . . 
The first two or three years of the outbreak 
in this country proved the worst, and at 
present little is heard of it in the East, 
especially from our largest and most efiicient 
growers. Its disappearance appears to be 
due to two causes — namely, the discovery 



154 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

and application of cultural methods which 
render infection less common, and the limit- 
ation of the fungus to a single stage (uredo) 
of existence. . . . That cultural meth- 
ods have had a great deal to do with the 
disappearance of the rust is evident from the 
fact that our most skilful growers of chrys- 
anthemums have never had it but one or two 
years, and some not at all; while less skilful 
and less painstaking growers have been more 
or less subject to it every year. From the 
first, we have never apprehended any very 
serious trouble from the rust, because we 
believed that some cultural methods would 
be devised that would render it less trouble- 
some. . . . Most gardeners agree that 
weak stock is the most susceptible to rust; 
and if weak, infected plants are allowed 
to remain in close proximity to strong, 
healthy ones, the latter will subsequently 
become Infected. The method of preventing 
rust consists of hand-picking the Infected 
leaves, selecting clean, strong stock, dis- 
carding susceptible varieties, and Inside 
culture. If these suggestions are carried 
out, the rust can be practically eliminated. 
In regard to inside culture during the sum- 



INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 1 55 

mer, we find that many excellent growers lay 
much stress on this practice, and from our 
observation we consider it very essential in 
order to obtain plants free from rust. The 
reason that inside culture results in less 
infection is due to the avoidance of mists and 
dews on the foliage, thus furnishing less 
favourable opportunity for rust spores to 
germinate and cause infection. Care should 
also be taken to keep all unnecessary water 
off the foliage in cultivation in the green- 
house. Most growers are unanimous in 
considering the chrysanthemum rust of 
little consequence and others look upon it as 
a thing of the past. There are a few, how- 
ever, who have not succeeded in subduing 
it and who still think it a serious disease. 
Some have resorted to spraying, with results 
that amount to little more than suppression. 
It appears from our own observations ^ as- well 
as from those obtained from the most suc- 
cessful growers of this plant, that the proper 
remedy lies in the judicious selection of 
healthy, rust-free stock, and inside cul- 
tivation. Give the plants plenty of air and 
keep the soil in good physical condition. If, 
however, any of the leaves become infected. 



156 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

they should be removed and burned immedi- 
ately, and if a plant becomes badly infected 
it should be burned. In whatever manner 
the plants are cultivated, whether indoors or 
outdoors, endeavour to keep the dew and 
moisture off the foliage as much as possible." 
This last admonition by Professor Stone, 
while being excellent advice upon the subject 
in question, needs to be qualified. It is, in 
fact, incompatible with the instructions 
given for the prevention and eradication of 
insects, unless qualified. Water may be used 
freely upon the foliage of the plants, provided 
that the soil is not kept saturated at any 
time and the foliage is perfectly dry before 
sunset each day, and during cloudy and wet 
weather. The soil should also be kept 
reasonably dry during periods of cold, cloudy, 
and rainy weather. If these conditions are 
maintained, water may be used liberally on 
the foliage without danger of inducing fun- 
gous diseases, for in our climate a liberal use 
of water on the foliage is absolutely necessary 
to the development of good chrysanthemums. 
With a thorough understanding of the mat- 
ter, the advice of Professor Stone is excellent, 
and entirely consistent with good practice. 



INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 1 57 

There is another fungous disease that 
causes the lower leaves of the plants to 
die and eventually the entire plant to 
dwindle and perish. This is called stem- 
rot, from the fact that the fungus attacks 
the stem and destroys the tissues or ducts, 
thus preventing the water from ascending 
and carrying the necessary nourishment 
for the proper development of the plant. 
This disease is comparatively rare. The 
fungus apparently enters the plants from 
the soil. The only remedy is the de- 
struction of affected plants and as this, 
like the other diseases noted, seldom attacks 
strong-growing, healthy plants, the same 
management applies. 

Powdery mildew of the chrysanthemum is 
the most common of all fungous diseases, and 
will attack healthy plants in greater or less 
degree, if conditions congenial to its develop- 
ment are allowed to exist. Sudden changes 
of temperature, combined with excessive 
moisture either in the soil or atmosphere, will, 
in all probability, induce an attack. Here 
again cultural care is the most effective 
preventive. While the temperature of the 
chrysanthemum house may go as low as 40 



158 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

degrees at night or even lower when the 
flowers are opening, the atmosphere must be 
dry and the temperature lowered gradually 
and there must be sufficient artificial heat 
combined with ventilation to keep a reason- 
ably free circulation of air through the house. 
Sulphur dusted through the house during 
the heat of the day, or a mixture of lime and 
sulphur in the form of paste spread on the 
heating pipes and sufficient heat applied to 
disperse the fumes, will aid in preventing and 
controlling the disease. If badly affected, 
the plants may be sprayed with a solution of 
liver of sulphur, one ounce to two gallons of 
water, care being taken that none of the 
solution comes in contact with opening 
flowers. The only other liquid fungicide 
that can be used without discolouring the 
foliage is the ammoniacal copper carbonate 
solution. This is prepared as follows, the 
formula being that given in Lodeman's "The 
Spraying of Plants": 

Copper carbonate 3 02. 

Ammonia (22° Beaume) I qt 

Agitate until the copper is completely dissolved 

Use in proportion of one part to one hun- 
dred parts water. Bordeaux mixture may 



Plate XXVIII 




HARDY ANEMONES 

When is the end of the season for chrysanthemums? This photograph was 
taken October 25, after several hard frosts. 



INSECTS, DISEASES, AND REMEDIES 1 59 

be used early in the season, but it discolours 
the foliage badly. 

A writer in the Journal of Horticulture 
(Eng.) gives the following: "If mildew 
attacks chrysanthemums — and August is 
the great month for it to appear — prompt 
measures must be taken. For this pur- 
pose, half a pound each of sulphur, soft soap, 
soot, and lime should be boiled for half an 
hour in a gallon of water, and, while it is still 
warm, half a pint of paraffin should be stirred 
into it. When cold, the liquid should be 
drawn off clear and bottled. It will keep 
indefinitely. When wanted for use, a 
quarter of a pint should be diluted with a 
gallon of water and the solution applied to 
the leaves — the under side especially — by 
means of a syringe or knapsack sprayer. It 
is a mistake to wait for an outbreak of dis- 
ease before using the solution. Its value as 
a preventive is far greater than as a remedy, 
and many experienced growers apply it 
once a fortnight from the beginning of July 
onward. Mr. Wells says that if it is used as 
a preventive for fungus, mildew will not 
make its appearance at all. It will also 
keep at a distance a fly which attacks chrys- 



l6o CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

anthemums, depositing its eggs in the 
leaves, which the maggots afterward dis- 
figure and destroy by boring up and down 
inside." 



CHAPTER X 
Growing in the South 

Chrysanthemums outdoors in New Orleans — Cultural hints 
month by month 

"As SOON as the young plants are well 
rooted in small pots," says C. W. Eichling in 
the New Orleans Picayune^ " they should be 
shifted into three-inch pots, using a rich soil 
to induce a healthy growth and prepare them 
for the open ground, into which they should 
be planted about the end of April. The 
cuttings are made from January to the end 
of March, according to the early and late 
blooming varieties. Some that are wanted 
for Christmas flowers may be propagated 
in the open ground under slatted shed or 
canvas in July and August. In New Orleans 
our most valuable crop is taken off on All 
Saints' Day, November 1st. The beds in 
which the chrysanthemums are to be grown 
should be made of rich soil, high, and well 
drained. A heavy loam, with a liberal mix- 

i6i 



l62 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

ture of cow manure and bone meal, suits 
them better than light, sandy soil. The 
plants are set out in beds, in rows one foot 
apart, and six inches between the plants. 
As we do not desire more than two flowers 
per plant, this distance will allow the flowers 
to attain a diameter of six inches without 
rubbing each other. We allow three feet 
between the beds, to permit free passage 
and easy cultivation. After planting, give a 
good watering. As the plants are set out 
from pots they will need no shading. When 
the plants are about one foot high we pinch 
the tops off the strongest growing ones,which 
causes them to make several shoots, of which 
we allow the strongest two to grow. The 
selection of these shoots must be made as 
soon as they are an inch or two long, to avoid 
a waste of growth in unnecessary shoots. 
The weaker plants are never topped, develop- 
ing but one flower apiece. The question 
whether it pays to grow one large flower per 
plant, or three or more smaller ones, depends 
largely on the demand in different localities. 
The only insect enemy that the chrysan- 
themum has is the green and black aphis, 
or fly, which can be kept down by a 



GROWING IN THE SOUTH 163 

liberal application of tobacco stems and 
dust. 

" It is now time to stake and tie the plants 
as they grow, in order to protect them from 
injury by the wind and to keep the branches 
straight. We drive a stake at each end of 
a row and stretch three rows of No. 16 wire, 
the first about a foot from the ground, the 
second about two feet, and a third as near 
the flower as possible, to keep the stem from 
breaking. From the time the plants are set 
out until the flowers are cut the chrysanthe- 
mums must not be allowed to get dry, and 
as long as drainage is perfect there is little 
danger of over-watering, except during the 
last stages of perfecting the flowers, when 
water should be given rather sparingly. If 
the soil was well prepared and enriched be- 
fore planting, additional fertilizing or feeding 
will be unnecessary until the buds are formed 
and selected. In this region crown buds 
rarely bring perfect flowers, and should not 
be selected. The terminal buds perfect the 
best flowers. It is supposed that by this 
time the plants, which are gross feeders, 
have exhausted the plant food contained in 
the soil, and in order to obtain as large a 



164 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

flower as possible we give the plants twice 
a week a watering with cow manure of about 
the concentration of weak tea. Toward 
the end of September the early varieties will 
show colour. From this time on, feeding 
must be stopped, only clear water being 
given, and the quantity gradually reduced 
until the flower is perfected. The opening 
petals are very delicate and waxy; all contact 
between blooms must be avoided. For this 
purpose we build a shed over them and cover 
it with canvas; or, still better, with glass, to 
keep the rain and dew from falling on them 
and to protect them from the hot sun's rays, 
which easily burn them." 



CHAPTER XI 

The Pompon Chrysanthemum 

Experience of an amateur with the old-fashioned type — Hardiness 
of pompons — Their decorative value and ease of culture 

The following experience of an amateur 
covers so thoroughly the culture of the 
garden's last dependable flower of the season 
that it is made a chapter by itself. 

"The'pompon chrysanthemum rewards the 
grower better than most flowers, as it is that 
rare thing, a hardy autumn plant, keeping 
in bloom for a month after almost everything 
else has gone, and able with its masses 
of blossoms to maintain a gay looking 
garden. 

"Whenever I see the strange shapes of the 
odd chrysanthemums on which the profes- 
sionals so pride themselves, and whenever I 
note how quickly those queer flowers fade, I 
think with satisfaction of my own unpre- 
tentious but prolific plantation. Not one 
flower to a stem, but often more than fifty; 
i6s 



1 66 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

not tender to frost, but hardy; not soon fad- 
ing in the house, but usually keeping more 
than a fortnight; regular in shape, beautiful 
in colour, requiring no skill to grow, no 
investment, and no great care. 

"lam ready to admit that there is beauty 
in many of the large-flowering chrysanthe- 
mums, but when I think of the care needed 
in growing them, as well as in keeping them 
after they are cut, and consider how 
little time the average home-gardener and 
house-keeper can give to both these, I 
make my decision in favor of the less 
showy but more cheaply and more easily 
grown kinds. 

THE INCREASE OF SEVEN YEARS 

"I Started seven years ago with perhaps a 
dozen small plants of two varieties, red and 
yellow. The yellow kind has done better 
than the red, and it now makes a row 
about twenty-two feet long, while the red 
ones fill only sixteen feet. Yet that is doing 
very well, considering three complete trans- 
plantings, the many roots given away, and 
the fact that not until recently have the 
plants had really good earth. Having been 



THE POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUM 1 67 

told that they would 'live anywhere,' and 
being an ignorant rather than a careless 
cultivator, I did not realize, until I tried it, 
the difference between living upon scant 
rations and flourishing upon plenty. There 
are now so many new plants springing from 
the roots that in another year I shall be able 
to nearly double each row. 

"Though they are an old-fashioned plant, 
and somewhat neglected just now, they are 
offered by seedsmen and nurserymen, who 
carry (according to their catalogues), some 
as few as four, one as many as forty- 
seven, named varieties, and one offers the 
seed. 

"They have the same shaped characteristic 
leaves as the show flowers, but are smaller, 
and bear their own small, symmetrical, more 
or less double flowers, in great profusion. 
The blossoms vary in size with the varieties, 
my small reds being seldom more than an 
inch across, while the yellows are two inches ; 
and I have seen other varieties whose flowers 
were as much as two and a half inches in 
diameter. It is possible to produce larger 
flowers by disbudding and growing only a 
few to a stem, but this requires more time 



1 68 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

and trouble than I have been able to give 
to them. 

POMPONS AS A SCREEN 

"I use these hardy chrysanthemums to 
screen my piazza lattice, which is never truly 
handsome, and which, as the summer ad- 
vances, they cover to perfection, even to the 
height of four and a half feet. As they grow 
they require support, for, although the red 
ones are very stiff, they bend in wind or rain; 
the yellows droop naturally. We support 
them with light bamboos tied across the rows; 
the uncompromising reds reveal their support, 
but the yellows completely cover theirs. 

*'As a low screen they are therefore 
perfect, and give besides, a good background 
for the flowers which stand in front of them. 
I know of no plant which I would exchange 
for them for this purpose. 

FLOWERS IN A FROST-DESOLATED 
LANDSCAPE 

''The pompon chrysanthemums become 
really valuable about the time when other 
plants give up the fight. I have the ill- 
fortune to live where my flowers get frost 



THE POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUM 169 

earlier and harder than my near neighbours. 
It is a particular satisfaction, therefore, to 
have my chrysanthemums come into bloom 
about the time that everything else is killed. 
My sneeze weed and sweet alyssum were the 
only flowers left to me, except some very 
feeble stocks, when the chrysanthemums 
were large enough to pick last year, and even 
those were soon gone. Last fall the first 
killing frost came September 27th; the frosts 
came almost nightly after the first week in 
October; the flowers were in bloom, large 
enough to pick, on October 12th, and 
gave a constant supply from that time on. 
The last picking was on November 12th, the 
plants having twice gone through frosts of 
eighteen degrees; but for some time longer 
the flowers were effective when seen from a 
distance, although too much injured to look 
well at close quarters in the house. 

"As cut flowers some of the bunches lasted 
three weeks; but after they had suffered 
from many frosts they lasted less than a week. 

HOW TO GET MORE FLOWERS 

"The pompon chrysanthemums are easily 
increased by division of the roots. Each 



170 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Spring the old plant sends out numerous new 
shoots, called suckers, which, if taken from 
the old plant, with a few roots if possible, 
will make blooming plants the following 
fall. Should the suckers not have roots they 
should be put in a pot or box of sand, and 
given the same treatment which is given to 
the ordinary 'slip,' or cutting. These 
suckers will produce new roots very quickly. 
When the plants become large they can be 
divided in the spring by cutting them with a 
spade into two or more pieces. 

"If young plants are not wanted the 
suckers should be removed, or else the plants 
will stand too closely. Grown as ours are 
for a screen, we let them stand at two to 
three inches apart, and feed them heavily. 
Their roots are shallow, therefore they must 
be cultivated carefully. It is a good plan to 
mulch with lawn clippings. So far, with us, 
they have had no pests or diseases, a small 
black plant-louse which comes in the middle 
of summer always disappearing without 
doing any harm. They should be watered 
while in flower, if the ground is at all dry. 

"Protection of the plants is a very simple 
matter, grown as ours are. Twice their 



THE POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUM I7I 

buds, while very young, have been killed by 
unexpected early, heavy frosts, against which 
we did not guard; but once in bloom 
both flowers and buds seem to be able to 
stand almost anything. However, I cover 
ours at night with cotton cloths which are 
attached to the bottom of the piazza railing, 
and folded back by day. In winter the only 
protection is their own tops, cut off and laid 
over the roots. Thinning, fertilizing, mulch- 
ing, supporting, covering against frosts, and 
breaking down the tops in fall are all the care 
needed for plants that yield us more flowers 
than any others. 

"There are two classes of hardy chrysan- 
themums which may be had — the Japanese 
and the pompons. The latter are usually far 
more satisfactory, as they are much hardier, 
yet it is possible to grow out of doors excellent 
flowers of the Japanese sorts four, five, and 
even six inches in diameter. There is nothing 
else in the garden just like these pompon 
chrysanthemums. Their colours are very 
vivid, and harmonize with nothing else, and 
because of their striking appearance it is 
better to grow them in masses by themselves. 

"The range of colour among the pompons 



172 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

is as great as in their larger relatives, the 
house chrysanthemums; and, for one who has 
not the advantage of a glass structure in 
which to grow the larger kinds, all the 
pleasure which they bring can be had in 
these smaller and hardier varieties." 



CHAPTER XII 
Cultural Hints Month by Month 

January — About the first of the month put 
in cuttings of all varieties that are to be grown 
as specimen bush plants or standards. 
About the 20th to 25th put in another 
lot for the same purpose. Plants intended 
for sale from two and one half inch pots 
during February should be propagated as 
fast as the cuttings can be secured. Stock 
plants must be got into growth toward the 
end of the month that we may secure 
cuttings for plants for March sales. Pot all 
cuttings as soon as ready. Order such novel- 
ties as are intended for trial during the season. 

February — Pot all cuttings as soon as 
well rooted. Plants that were propagated 
during December and January, intended for 
specimen bush plants, must be stopped as 
soon as they are two to three inches high. 
They should also be repotted into four-inch 
pots. Put in the last lot of cuttings for 
173 



174 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

specimen bush plants and standards about 
the 20th of the month. Give stock plants 
good care, particularly abundant venti- 
lation. Put in cuttings for plants for 
March sales. Plants that are being shipped 
must be well packed and protected from cold. 

March — Early propagated bush plants 
and standards will be ready for repotting into 
six-inch, the second lot into four-inch pots. 
Keep all bush plants stopped as required. 
Cuttings in propagating beds will need care- 
ful attention as to shading and an abundance 
of water. Stock plants should have all the 
ventilation possible during bright sunny 
days, to induce stocky, healthy cuttings for 
April propagating. Propagate for sales as 
required. If soil for general potting and 
planting was not secured in the fall it must 
be got as soon as possible. 

April — Repot early bush plants into 
eight-inch, second lot into six-inch, and last 
lot into four-inch pots. Begin tying down 
branches of bush plants to obtain desired 
form. Stop standards to form head. Prop- 
agate plants intended for specimen cut 
blooms for exhibition from the ist to 
the 15th; also early varieties for cut 



CULTURAL HINTS MONTH BY MONTH 1 75 

blooms for market, and for small bush plants 
for market during the last half of the month. 
Turn and mix the compost intended for 
potting and planting. Plant hardy va- 
rieties outdoors. 

May — Repot early bush plants into 
flowering pots; later ones into six- and eight- 
inch pots as required. Give careful attention 
to stopping and tying bush plants and stand- 
ards. Pot all cuttings as soon as ready. 
Propagate plants for principal crop of cut 
blooms for market, for six-inch pot plants, 
and plants for decorative purposes. Plant 
all varieties intended for exhibition blooms. 
Plant all varieties outdoors that are to be 
grown there. 

June — Pot all bush plants and stand- 
ards into their flowering pots. Attend to 
stopping and tying. Syringe freely. Give 
all ventilation possible. Get benches filled 
with soil, and set plants for principal crop of 
cut blooms planted. Propagate late varieties 
for cut blooms. 

July — Discontinue stopping bush plants 
after the 7th of the month. Keep sur- 
face of soil in benches stirred. Put supports 
to all plants to be grown for cut blooms. 



176 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Remove laterals from early planted stock. 
Syringe all plants freely. Keep houses cool, 
and give all ventilation possible. Begin 
feeding early-planted stock and bush plants, 
if in condition for taking food. Plant late 
varieties for cut blooms. Put supports to 
bush plants to prevent branches breaking. 
Put supports to all plants outdoors that 
require supporting. Give plants outdoors 
abundance of water. 

August — Feed all plants that are in a 
healthy condition. Remove laterals. Look 
out for crown buds of early varieties. 
Keep all plants tied to supports, and stems 
straight. Look out for crown buds of 
all varieties after the 20th. Disbud. 
Lift and pot any plants that have been grown 
in borders or benches for small bush plants. 
Keep plants that are planted outdoors 
thoroughly watered. Give them a mulching 
of good manure. 

September — Taking buds, disbudding, 
tying, feeding, watering, and syringing are 
all important now. See that all plants 
are free from insects, and that they are 
reasonably dry at night. Arrange for mar- 
keting cut blooms. Decide what will be 



CULTURAL HINTS MONTH BY MONTH 1 77 

sent to exhibitions and where. Put up 
supports for protecting early flowering va- 
rieties that are to flower outdoors. 

October — Disbudding will require almost 
constant attention. Begin tying out bush 
plants and standards. Early varieties will 
be ready for use and should be disposed of. 
Discontinue feeding red-coloured varieties. 
Give abundant ventilation at all times. 
Put some heat in the pipes during cold, wet 
weather. Look out for damping of flowers. 
Grade flowers that are to go to market, pack 
them carefully, and be prompt in making 
shipments. Exhibitions will be held and 
exhibition blooms should be looked after 
carefully, storing any that are developed too 
early. Put the finish to bush plants. Note 
varieties as to time of development, char- 
acter, and colour. Make a display of plants 
and blooms that are for sale. Select and 
label healthy plants that have produced 
good blooms for stock plants, before the 
blooms are cut. Protect blooms that have 
been grown outdoors. 

November — Blooms that are to be held 
for exhibition or other purposes should be 
stored just before they are quite finished. 



178 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Market plants should be sold before they are 
fully finished, if possible. Select plants that 
are perfect. Store all stock plants as fast 
as the blooms are cut. Collect and stack 
soil and manure for next year's supply. 
Lift and store all stock that has been grown 
outdoors. 

December — Remove all stock from the 
beds and benches as soon as possible, to 
allow the space to be used for other pur- 
poses. See that frost does not penetrate 
the storage room, and admit all the light 
possible to keep the foliage of stored stock 
in good condition. Begin propagating for 
specimen bush plants and standards and 
for early sales. 



CHAPTER XIII 

Types and Varieties 

Distinctive characteristics — The most popular types— Types 
desirable for various purposes —Early, imd-season, and late 
varieties for special purposes 

The history of the origin of the types of 
chrysanthemum in cultivation at the present 
time is obscure, and certainly is not essential 
to their successful cultivation. They have 
all been produced by blending two distinct 
species, Chrysanthemum Indicum and Chrys- 
anthemum morifolium, or Sinensis, as it is 
commonly known. They belong to the 
botanical order of Compositse, the true 
flowers of which are very small, tubular 
shaped, and, arranged closely together, form- 
ing a head which is surrounded by a circle of 
petals or florets, called rays. 

THE single type 

The small, single type appears to be 
nearest to the form of the original parents. 

179 



l80 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

These produce flowers from one to two inches 
across, having a yellow centre composed 
of the normal, perfect flowers, or florets, as 
they are called. While not always 
strictly single, they all have the effect of 
being so, and are so styled. The large 
single forms are similar to the small, 
but have flowers from four to five inches 
across. 

THE ANEMONE TYPE 

These are somewhat similar to the single 
type, but instead of the centre being com- 
posed of normal florets, the tubes of the 
florets are elongated, quilled, and enlarged 
at the ends, producing a high, rounded 
centre. The small anemones, known as 
"pompon anemones," have flowers about 
two inches across, with straight, short ray 
florets. Like the true pompons, they are 
quite hardy and may be grown outdoors. 
The large anemones are similar to the pom- 
pon anemones, but larger, the flowers being 
three to four inches across. The Japanese 
anemones are quite large, from four to six 
inches across, and irregular in form, the ray 
florets often being quite numerous and the 



TYPES AND VARIETIES l8l 

rays long, twisted, curled, and drooping, 
producing singular and sometimes very 
beautiful effects. 

THE POMPON TYPE 

The pompons have small blooms, some of 
them being not more than one half inch 
across. The growth is never more than 
three feet high, the leaves are small, and the 
stems stiff and wiry. They will live out of 
doors with very slight protection in most 
parts of the United States. 

THE INCURVED TYPE 

The flowers are regular in outline, glob- 
ular, with the florets regularly and smoothly 
arranged. Any unevenness is considered a 
defect. Consequently the flowers of the 
true incurved type are very formal. 

THE REFLEXED TYPE 

The flowers of this type are more or less 
hemispheroidal, having the bloom well filled 
with florets growing outward and downward 
and full at the centre. 

THE HAIRY TYPE 

The flowers of this type are generally 



l82 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

small to medium size, incurving, the reverse 
of the florets having more or less glandular, 
hair-like growth on the surface. 

THE JAPANESE TYPE 

In this type are placed all the irregular, 
fantastic, and beautiful forms that cannot 
be included in any of the previously spec- 
ified groups. The greater number of the 
varieties grown in the United States must be 
included in this type. With few exceptions, 
the other types are not popular here. The 
large, informal Japanese varieties are very 
popular. The little pompons rank next to 
them in popularity. At one time the hairy 
type created somewhat of a sensation, but 
since the novelty has worn off they are 
rarely grown, except occasionally as a cu- 
riosity. 

SELECTIONS OF VARIETIES 

In making selections of varieties for any 
purpose it will be wise to include only the 
very best forms in each class of colour. 
New varieties are constantly being orig- 
inated and introduced, and as soon as one 
proves superior to any existing variety of 



TYPES AND VARIETIES 1 83 

the same colour, the older one is relegated to 
obscurity. Thus the lists of varieties in 
cultivation are constantly changing. Very 
few varieties remain in cultivation for a 
decade; many, of course, not more than a 
year or two. In making selections for the 
various purposes specified hereafter only 
those that are considered the best in their 
respective colours, with a liberal allowance 
for individual preference or varying cir- 
cumstances, have been named. 

SINGLE VARIETIES 

Like the pompons, these are growing more 
popular each year. They may be used with 
good effects as pot plants, singly or in plant 
decorations. As cut flowers, they may be 
used for many purposes where the large- 
flowered varieties would be inappropriate. 
Many new and beautiful varieties have been 
originated recently. 

Amber Queen, dwarf habit. 

Argenta, dwarf, pure white. 

Arlee, golden amber. 

Belle of Weybridge, terra cotta. 

F. W. Smith, rich pink. 

Gracie Lambert, deep rose pink. 

J. T. Angus, rosy cerise, late. 

Katie Covell, maroon. 

Kitty Bourne, soft golden yellow 

Lady Lu, large, pure white, vigorous grower. 



184 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Ladysmith, pink, early, first class. 
Mizpah, purplish-rose, dwarf. 
Merstham Jewel, terra cotta and gold. 
Reginald Godfrey, yellow. 
Rev. W. E. Renfray, rich crimson maroon. 



POMPONS AND POMPON ANEMONES 

These are hardy, and desirable for plant- 
ing outdoors, also for growing as small bush 
plants, for using in plant decorations, and 
for cutting, as sprays of many of the varie- 
ties are very beautiful. 

WHITE 

Angelique, early, graceful habit. 

Baby Margaret, one of the most popular. 

Emily Roebottom, pompon anemone. 

La Purete, early, stiff stem, good for cutting. 

Maid of Kent, an old and good variety. 

Mildred, pompon anemone, blush edge to petals. 

Queen of Whites, creamy white, good. 

Elva, magnificent, pure white, early, one of the best. 

PINK 

Autumn Queen, an old and good variety. 

Blenheim, magnificent pure pink. 

Danizula, soft pink, good. 

Grace Darling, pompon anemone. 

La Paranace, delicate pink, one of the best. 

Rose Marguerite, dark rosy cerise, late. 

Rosanthe, rose, good. 

Alma, deep pink, one of the best. 

YELLOW 

Donkelarii, rich golden yellow. 

Eagle d'Or, pompon anemone, pleasing flower. 

Elberta, very good, deep yellow. 

Golden Circle, early. 

Golden Trevenna, small flowers, profuse bloomer. 

Zenobia, early, rich deep yellow. 

Klondike, brilliant yellow, compact bloom. 

Ila, bright yellow, fimbriated petals, one of the very best. 



TYPES AND VARIETIES 1 85 

OTHER COLOURS 

Attila, orange maroon, excellent. 

Brown Bessie, small flower but rich colour. 

Canova, deep orange bronze, very rich. 

Captivation, small reddish pink. 

Julia Lagravere, the best dark red. 

Little Pet, rich violet red. 

Little Bob, red, early and free. 

Little Dot, mahogany, profuse bloomer. 

Manilla, pompon anemone, deep cardinal red, yellow centre. 

Santiago, bronze red. 

Stratagem, dark orange red. 

Ingo, crimson mahogany, a splendid variety. 

Skibo, fine bronze. 

VARIETIES FOR SMALL BUSH PLANTS FOR 
HOME USE OR MARKET 

Selected because of reasonably dwarf 
habit, vigorous, healthy growth, with stems 
that require but little if any staking and ty- 
ing. Abbreviations: Inc., incurved; Jap. 
inc., Japanese incurved; Ref., reflexed; Jap. 
ref., Japanese reflexed; Jap., Japanese; An., 
Anemone. 

A. J. Balfour, bright rosy pink, Jap. 

Brutus, orange bronze, Jap ref. 

Carrie, bright yellow, early, Jap. 

Dr. Enguehard, pink, Jap. inc. 

F. A. Cobbold, mauve pink, Jap, 

Garza, white, An. 

George W. Childs, crimson, Jap. 

Glory of the Pacific, pink, early, Jap. 

Ivory, white, Jap. inc. An old variety, but one of the very best 

in cultivation for this purpose. 
John Shrimpton, crimson, ref. 
Lady Lydia, white, Jap. 
Midge, white, Jap., very dwarf. 
Miss Alice Dalskov, light pink, sport from Ivory. 



1 86 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Miss Clay Frick, white, sport from William Duckham, Jap. inc. 

Mizpah, single, bright purplish rose. 

Monrovia, yellow, early, Jap. 

Polly Rose, white, sport from Glory of the Pacific. 

R. Hooper Pearson, very rich yellow, Jap. inc. 

W. H. Lincoln, yellow, Jap. Will make a magnificent specimen. 

Mrs. J. R. Trantor, white, Jap. 

Golden Age, first class. 

Yellow Miller. 

VARIETIES FOR LARGE SPECIMEN PLANTS 
AND STANDARDS 

The necessary characteristics for any 
variety to make a satisfactory large 
specimen plant are, strong, vigorous 
growth; good, healthy, and reasonably 
heavy foliage; stiff stems, and moderately 
dwarf habit. 

A. J. Balfour, bright rosy pink, Jap. Makes a beautiful plant. 
Col. D. Appleton, yellow, Jap. inc. Grows a trifle tall, but by 

stopping late may be shaped into a good plant. 
Dr. Enguehard, pink, Jap. inc. 

Garza, white. An. Can be grown to make a splendid plant. 
Glory of the Pacific, light pink, early, Jap. 
Ivory, white, Jap. inc. One of the very best varieties for the 

purpose. 
Lady Lydia, white, Jap. Makes a fine plant or standard. 
Louis Boehmer, pink, inc., hairy. 

Miss Alice Byron, white. Rather tall, but will make a good plant. 
Miss Clay Frick, white; sport from William Duckham 
Mrs. H. Weeks, white, Jap. inc. Tall-growing, but can be worked 

into a magnificent bush or standard. 
Polly Rose, white, sport from Glory of the Pacific. 
R. Hooper Pearson, yellow, Jap. inc. The foliage of this variety 

is not quite as heavy as desirable, but the colour is superb. 
Soleil d' Octobre (Oct. Sunshine), yellow, ref., early. 
Viviand-Morel, pink. Makes a beautiful plant. 
W. H. Lincoln, yellow, Jap. This is probably superior to any 

other variety for the purpose. 



TYPES AND VARIETIES 1 87 

Brutus, orange bronze, Jap. ref. 

Annie Laurie, dark purplish cerise. Makes a magnificent specimen. 



VARIETIES FOR SINGLE-STEM PLANTS IN 
SIX-INCH POTS 

These have been selected for both exhibi- 
tion and decorative purposes because of 
reasonably dwarf habit of growth, good 
foliage, large blooms of fine form, and a good 
variety of colour. 

WHITE 

Beatrice May. A magnificent Jap. inc. 

Merza, Jap. inc. 

Miss Alice Byron, Jap. inc. 

Miss Clay Frick, Jap. inc. 

Miss May Seddon, Jap. Should be propagated early. 

Mrs. H. Weeks, Jap. inc. Magnificent blooms from crown buds. 

Polly Rose, Jap. early. 

October Frost, Jap., early. (Smith's Advance.) 

PINK 

A. J. Balfour, Jap. 

Amorita, Jap. inc. early. 

F. A. Cobbold, Jap. ref. 

Miriam Hankey, Jap. inc. New and promising. 

Morton F. Plant, Jap. ref. 

Mrs. Perrin, Jap. inc. 

William Duckham, Jap. inc. 

Glory of the Pacific 

YELLOW 

Buttercup, inc. 

Col. D. Appleton, Jap. inc. 

Cheltoni, Jap. 

F. S. Vallis, Jap. ref. Merstham Yellow, Jap. ref. 
Monrovia, Jap. Early. Mrs. W. Duckham, Jap. ref. 
Maj. Bonnafion, inc. Sunburst, Jap. inc. 

OTHER COLOURS 

G. J. Brooks, Jap. inc., purple crimson, silver purple reverse. 
J. H. Doyle, Jap. ref., terra cotta red. 



1 88 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

John Shrimpton, ref., crimson. An old variety, fine when well 

grown. 
Merstham, red, Jap. ref. 

Mrs. J. E. Dunne, Jap. ref., rosy terra cotta. 
Mrs. Henry Partridge, Jap. inc., crimson, old gold reverse. 
Mrs. George Heaume, Jap. ref., salmon bronze. 
Mrs. D. Willis James, Jap., chestnut red. 
Millicent Richardson, Jap. ref., rich purple claret. 
Old Gold, Jap. 

Winifred, salmon yellow, Jap. inc. 
G. W. Pook, salmon terra cotta, Jap. inc. 
Leslie Morrison, rosy crimson, Jap. inc. 
Mrs. O. H. Kahn, bronze. A splendid variety, Jap. inc. 
Pockett's Crimson, Jap. ref. 
Charles H. Totty, chestnut scarlet, Jap. ref. 



VARIETIES FOR GROWING IN SIX- OR EIGHT- 
INCH POTS, WITH THREE TO SIX 
FLOWERS, FOR USE IN PLANT 
DECORATIONS 

WHITE Mrs. Coombs. 

Clementine Touset. Rosiere. 

Miss Alice Byron. YELLOW 

Mrs. W. H. Weeks. Golden Age. 

Mrs. Nathan Smith Golden Wedding. 

October Frost. Maj. Bonnaffon. 

Polly Rose. Monrovia. 

R. Hooper Pearson. 



Soleil d'Octobre. 



PINK 

Amorita. 

A. J. Balfour. CRIMSON AND RED 

Helen Bloodgood. John Shrimpton. 

Leila Filkins. Merstham Crimson. 

Mrs. Perrin. Pockett's Crimson 



VARIETIES FOR EXHIBITION CUT BLOOMS 

These are all varieties that have appeared 
more or less prominently at the exhibitions 



TYPES AND VARIETIES 1 89 

within the past two or three years. There 
are other varieties that can be grown to 
creditable exhibition quality, but few if any 
will prove superior to the varieties specified 
in their respective colours, or in open classes. 
They possess, when properly developed, quali- 
ties of size, substance, colour, stem, and foliage 
to place them among the winning exhibits. 

Alice Lemon, soft pink. . , , 1 ,„ x,^,„ 

Beatrice May, white, Jap. inc. A massive bloom, when grown from 

crown bud, which may be taken as early as August IS th. 
Col. D. Appleton, yellow, Jap. inc. Massive blooms from crown 

buds. Lack of gracefulness is its only fault. 
Yellow sport from Mrs. J. A. Miller, light yellow. _ 
Chrysanthemiste Montigny, lemon yellow ^-^- .}^'-^''^^^'^ 

variety that will produce enormous blooms if early crown 

buds are taken. Propagate early. ^. , . 

Mrs O. H. Kahn, bronze, Jap. inc. A splendid variety. 
Cheltoni, yellow, sport from Nellie Pockett, Jap. 
Pockett's Crimson, Jap. ref. New and best of its class. 
Charles H. Totty, chestnut scarlet, Jap. ref. 

F. S. Vallis, yellow, Jap. ref. Massive bloom, but weak stem. 

G. W. Pook, salmon terra-cotta, Jap. inc. 
Winifred, salmon terra-cotta, Jap. inc. 

Golden Dome, yellow, inc. Sport from T. Eaton. 
Howard Gould, bright chestnut, golden reverse, Jap. 

^tKTmfpi/: white, Jap. Probably the best white 

ever introduced, 
Mrs. A. R. Peacock, white, Jap. inc.^ 
Miss Alice Finch, purple crimson, Jap. inc. 
Merza, white, Jap. inc. Large bloom and good fohage. Stem is 

not quite first class. 
Mary Mason, bronzy red, Jap. 

Miss May Seddon, white, Jap. ref. Propagate early. 
Miss Miriam Hankey, beautiful pink, Jap. inc., hairy. One of the 

most promising of recent introductions. ^^^.^^ 

Morton F. Plant, deep pink. Jap. ref. Magnificent stem and 

foliage, but the flower sits a trifle too close to the foliage. 



190 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

Mrs. George Heaume, salmon bronze, Jap. 

Mrs. George Hunt, canary yellow, Jap. inc. Enormous blooms, 

Mrs. Henry Barnes, old rose, Jap. inc. New. 

Mrs. H. Weeks, purest white, Jap. inc. Magnificent in every 

particular when well grown. Difficult to keep, as it is very 

susceptible to damping. 
Mrs. A. T, Miller, white, Jap. 
Mrs. J. A. Miller, brick red, Jap. ref. 
Mrs. John E. Dunne, rosy terra cotta. ref. A splendid grower 

and massive blooms. 
Armanda, creamy white. Enormous Jap. 
Pockett's Crimson, old gold, reverse, Jap. inc. 
President Roosevelt, white, with pink striping to each petal, giving 

a light flesh pink effect, Jap. inc. An attractive flower. 
Timothy Eaton, white, Jap. inc. A massive but coarse bloom. 
T. Richardson, soft shell pink, Jap. 
Valerie Greenham, bright pink, Jap. ref. 
William Duckham, silvery pink, Jap. inc. One of the very best 

varieties. 
W. Woodmason, crimson, Jap. ref. 
Well's Late Pink, Jap. ref. 
William Turner, white, Jap. 

Yellow Eaton, Jap. inc. Sport from Timothy Eaton, 
S. A. Necceur-Bey, bronzy yellow, Jap. inc. 



VARIETIES FOR GROWING FOR COMMER- 
CIAL CUT FLOWERS 

The following selection includes most 
of the best known and most popular va- 
rieties for the purpose. It would be unwise 
for any one to grow more than one or two 
of the specified varieties of each colour of 
the early, mid-season, and late varieties. 

Some varieties are better adapted to 
certain treatment than others, and some 
markets demand different varieties from 
others. 



TYPES AND VAUIE'TIES 



191 



The grower can select the one or two va- 
rieties best suited to his conditions and needs. 



EARLY WHITE 

Clementine Touset. 

Ivory. 

Beatrice May. 

Madam Gastillier. 

October Frost. 

Oroba. 

Virginia Poehlman. 

Polly Rose. 

EARLY YELLOW 

Carrie. 

Comoleta. 

Soleil d' Octobre. 

Donatella. 

Monrovia. A standard variety. 

Golden Glow. 

EARLY PINK 

Amorita. 

Glory of the Pacific. 

Mrs. Coombs. 

Mrs. William Wincott. 

Mme. L. H. Cochet. 

Pink Queen. 

Unaka. 

Rosiere. 

MID-SEASON WHITE 
Beatrice May. 
Miss Alice Byron. 
Miss Clay Frick. 
President Taft. 
MID-SEASON PINK 
A. J. Balfour. 
Dr. Enguehard. 



Miss Miriam Hankey. 

Morton F. Plant. 

William Duckham. 

Mrs. Perrin. 

MID-SEASON YELLOW 

Col. D. Appleton. 

Golden Age. 

Golden Wedding. 

Major Bonnaffon. 

R. F. Felton. 

Sunburst. 

LATE WHITE 

Jeanne Nonin. 

Mile. Anna Debono. 

Merry Christmas. 

Mrs. Jerome Jones. 

Timothy Eaton. 

William H. Chadwick. 

Chadwick, Improved. 

Yanoma. 

LATE PINK 

John Burton. 

Lavender Queen. 

Maud Dean 

W. T. Brock, Jap. inc. 

Miss Helen Frick. 

Mile. Jeanne Rosette. 

Superba. 

LATE YELLOW 

Golden William H. Chadwick. 

Golden Dome. 

Mrs. E. Beuttner. 

Mrs. George Beech. 

Nagoya. 



There is but little demand commercially 
for chrysanthemums other than white and 
the various shades of pink and yellow. Some 



192 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

crimsons and reds may be demanded, how- 
ever; therefore a selection of a few varieties 
is given: 

John Shrimpton, crimson. Intensity, red. 

Merstham, crimson. Goachers, crimson. 

Pockett's Crimson. Matchless, red 

HAIRY VARIETIES 

F. J. Taggart, yellow, one of the best. 

L'Enfant des Deux Mondes, white. Sport from Louis Boehmer. 

Locadie Gentils, yellow. Sport from L'Enfant des Deux Mondes. 

Louis Boehmer, magenta pink. 

Pluma, delicate pink. 

ANEMONE VARIETIES 

Descartes, crimson red. Dwarf. 

Enterprise, light rose, yellow centre. 

Eulalie, white, good. 

Garza, white. Splendid for bush plants. 

Mrs. Hugh Gardner, deep rose. 

Zoraida, white rays, yellow centre. Large and fine. 

Beatrice Asmus, white. Small flower, but a pleasing form. 

EARLY LARGE-FLOWERING VARIETIES 
FOR OUTDOORS 

List of kinds recommended by the ama- 
teur whose experiences are quoted at length 
in Chapter I. 

Any of the following early-flowering 
varieties may be expected to do well. 
I would always include Glory of the 
Pacific, and its sports, Cremo and Polly Rose. 

DWARF 

Cremo, light yellow. Lady Harriet, deep pink, incurved. 

Glory of the Pacific, pink. Pink Ivory, pink sport from Ivory. 

Ivory, white, globular. Polly Rose, white. 



TYPES AND VARIETIES I93 

MEDIUM 

George W. Childs, crimson. Merry Monarch, white. 

Lady Fitzwygram, white. Monrovia, bright yellow. 

Marion Henderson, yellow. Yellow Fitzwygram. 

TALL 

Soleil d'Octobre, yellow. The tall varieties are not well adapted 
to outdoor cultivation. 

If the plants are to be grown for just one 
flower it should be so stated when buying, 
as otherwise you may receive plants with 
the tops nipped out, causing the plant to 
branch and form a bush. If you want to 
try any not named above, be sure to ask for 
early, large-flowering varieties. 



THE END 



THE COUNTRY UTE PB£SS, GASDEN CUY, TH. Y. 



INDEX 



Amateur's experience, An, 

America, Exhibiting in, 109. 
Ammoniacal copper car- 
bonate, 158. 
Ammonia, Sulphate of, 74. 
Anemone type, 180. 
Aphis, black, 146, 

green, 146. 
April, Work for, 174. 
Arranging colours, 108. 
Artemisias, 6. 
Ashes, Wood, 71. 
August, Work for, 176. 

Beds, Benches better than, 

21. 
Bee-fly, chrysanthemum, 

151. 

Benches better than solid 
beds, 21. 

Construction of, 22. 

Planting in, 82. 
Bentley, Professor, quoted, 

139. 
Berberis Thunbergii used 

in exhibiting, no. 
Black aphis, 146. 
Blooms, Dressing, 107. 
for exhibition. Propaga- 
ting, 77.^ 
for exhibition. Selecting, 
98. 



Blooms, Growing exhibi- 
tion, TJ. 
Methods of supporting, 

Packing exhibition, 99. 
Staging, 106. 
Storage room for, 24. 
Storing 97. 
Tying, 55. 
Bordeaux mixture, 159. 
Bottom heat, 34. 
Boxes, Plants grown in, 

81. 
Breaking, Preventing 

plants from, 52. 
Bud formation. Influence 
of season on, 92. 
Taking the, 55, 91. 
Buds, crown, 9. 

for largest flowers, 10. 
terminal, 9. 
"Bud varieties," 143. 
Bug, the tarnished plant, 

150. 
Burning of varieties, 95. 
Bush Plants, 43. ^ 
Dwarf, 125. 
Forms of, 49. 
Frames for, 56. 
House for, 23. 
Making, 12. 
Scales for judging, 62. 
Supports for, 13. 



19s 



196 



INDEX 



Training, 49. 
Transporting, 60. 
Varieties for small, 185. 



Care of stock plants, 32. 
Caterpillars, 149. 
Chrysanthemum bee-fly, 

151- 

frutescens as a stock, 
42.^ 

Indicum, 179. 
In the greenhouse, 19. 
Morifolium, 179. 
soil, The best, 26. 
Miniature, 128. 
Chrysanthemums, pompon, 
i6s. 
with other crops in the 
greenhouse, 21. 
Church decoration. Chrys- 
anthemums for, 131. 
Classes of hardy chrysan- 
themums, 171. 
Colours, Arranging, 108. 
Perpetuating new, 144. 
Commercial fertilizers, 6^^ 

75; 
Commission men. Selling to, 

123. 

Complete fertilizers, 75. 

Composition of the chrys- 
anthemum. Mineral, 

64. 

Compost, An expert's opin- 
ion of, 28. 
Manures in the, 30. 
Construction, Chrysanthe- 
mum greenhouse, 17. 
of benches, 22. 
Crops in the greenhouse, 



Chrysanthemums with 
other, 21. 
Cross-fertilization, 135. 
Crossing, varieties for, 137 
Crown bud. The, 9, 88. 
for largest flowers, 10. 
vs. terminal buds. The, 
89. 
Cut blooms, growing plants 
for, 120. 
profits in, 122. 
varieties for exhibition, 
188. 
Cut flowers, varieties for 

commercial, 190, 
Cutting house, Shading the, 

36. 
Cuttings, How to make, 37. 
Rooting, 35. 

Temperature for rooting, 
35- 

Damping, 95. 

caused by spraying, 94. 
December, Work for, 178. 
Decoration, Chrysanthe- 
mums for interior, 127, 
188. 
Disbudding, 9, 54, 90. 
Distance for planting, 80. 
Division, Propagation by, 

39. 
Drainage, Importance of, 

47. 
Dressing blooms, 107. 
Dwarf bush plants, 125. 

Early, large-flowering vari- 
eties, 192. 

Eichling, C. W., quoted, 
161. 



INDEX 



197 



Elements of plant food, 65 
England, Exhibiting in, 109. 
Method of propagating 
in, 36. 
Ethics of exhibiting, no. 
Excessive feeding. Results 

of, 31. 
Exhibiting, Berberis Thun- 
bergii used in, no. 
Ethics of, no. 
in America, 109. 
in England, 109. 
Exhibition blooms, Grow- 
ing, TJ. 
Packing, 99. 
Propagating for, 77. 
varieties for, 188. 
Exhibition, Selectingblooms 

for, 98. 
Experience, An amateur's, 

7, 165. ^ 
Expert's opinion of com- 
post, An, 28. 
Export, Packing plants for, 
118. 



February, Work for, 173. 
Feeding, Results of ex- 
cessive, 31. 
the chrysanthemum, 28, 

64. 

in the South, 163. 
Fertilizers, Commercial, 66^ 

67, 75- 
Flowers after frost, 168. 
Crown buds for largest, 

10. 
in U. S., Value of plants 
and, 112. 
Frame for bush plants, 56. 



for standards, 59. 
Freight, Sending plants by, 

61. 
Frost, Flowers after, 168. 
Protection from early, 
14, 



Glass, Growing under, 17. 
Grafting for standards, 39. 
Grasshopper, 149. 
Green aphis, 146. 
Greenhouse, Best height for 
a, 18. 
Chrysanthemums with 
other crops in the, 21. 
construction, 17. 
on the plants, Influence 

of the, 19. 
Place of the chrysanthe- 
mum in the, 19. 
Ventilators in the, 18. 
Growing exhibition blooms, 

plants for cut blooms, 
120. 
Guide to the sections, 99. 



Hairy type^ 181. 

Hardy chrysanthemums, 
classes of, 171. 

Heat, "Bottom," 34. 

Height for a greenhouse. 
Best, 18. 

Home decoration, chrys- 
anthemums in, 130. 

House for specimen bush 
plants, 23. 
Propagating, 34. ^ 
shading the cutting, 36. 



198 



INDEX 



How to make a bush plant, 
12. 
make cuttings, 37. 
train standards, 12. 

Importance of drainage, 

47- 
of texture of soil, 25. 
Importing, 132. 
Incurved type, 181. 
Packing the, lOi. 
Influence of greenhouse on 
the plants, 19. 
season on bud forma- 
tion, 92. 
Interior decoration. Chrys- 
anthemums for, 127. 

January, Work for, 173. 
Japanese type, 182. 
Judging bush plants, Scales 
for, 62. 
seedlings, 144. 
July, Work for, 175. 
June, Work for, 175. 

Large bushes and stand- 
ards. Varieties for, 186. 

Large-flowering, early vari- 
eties, 192. 

Large-flowering varieties, 
Protecting, 6. 

Leaf spot, 152. 

Lime, Supplying, 69. 

Liquid manure, 71. 

Lodeman, E. G., quoted, 
159- 

Mail, Shipping plants by, 
117. 



Manure, 29, 67. 

in the compost, 30. 

Liquid, 71. 
March, Work for, 174. 
May, Work for, 175. 
Mendelism, 136. 
Method of propagating in 
England, 36. 

of supporting blooms, 84. 
Mildew, Powdery, 157. 

Treatment for, 159. 
Mineral composition of 
chrysanthemums, 64. 
Miniature chrysanthe- 
mums, 128. 
Multiplying pompons, 169. 

New varieties. Producing, 

134. 
Nitrate of potash, 74. 

soda, 73. 
November, Work for, 177. 

October, Work for, 177. 
Outdoors, Growing plants, 

Pompons for growing, 6. 

Packages for shipping 

blooms, 124. 
Packing blooms. Principles 
of, 105. 
exhibition blooms, 99. 
plants for export, 118. 
in warm weather, 116. 
the incurved type, loi 
the reflex type, loi. 
young plants, 114. 
Perpetuating new colours, 
144. 



INDEX 



199 



Place of the chrysanthe- 
mum in the green- 
house, 19. 
Plant food, Elements of, 65. 
Planting, Distance for, 8, 80. 

in benches, 82. 
Plants and flowers in U. S. 
Value of, 112. 
by freight. Sending, 61. 
by mail. Sending, 117. 
Plants, dwarf, 125. 
in the South, Feeding, 163 
for cut blooms, Growing, 

120. 
for export, Packing, 118. 
Frames for bush, 56. 
from breaking. Prevent- 
ing, 52. 
outdoors. Growing, 5. 
grown in boxes, 81. 
in pots, 79. 

Influence of the green- 
house on the, 19. 
in warm weather. Pack- 
ing young, 114, 116. 
protecting in the South, 

163. 
raising from seed, 141. 
Seed, 137. 
Selling young, 113. 
Transporting bush, 60 
Pollenizing, 138. 
Time for, 140. 
Pompon chrysanthemums, 

165. 
Pompons and pompon- 
anemones, 184. 
as a screen, 168. 
for growing outdoors, 6. 
Multiplying, 169. 
Protection for, 170. 



Pompon type, 181. 
Potash, Nitrate of, 74. 
Potting, Soil for, 44 
Pots, Plants grown in, 79 

used. Sizes of, 48 
Powdery mildew, 157. 
Preparing the soil, 25, 27. 
Preventing rust, 155. 

plants from breaking, 52. 
Principles of packing 

blooms, 105. 

propagation, 33. 
Producing new varieties, 

134- 

Profits of cut blooms, 122. 
Propagating, 25. 

by division, 39. 

for exhibition blooms, 

T7' 
house. A, 34. 
in England, Method of, 

36., 
Principles of, 33. 
Protecting large-flowering 

varieties, 6. 
plants in the South, 163. 
from early frosts, 14. 
pompons, 170. 
Protection, Winter, 15. 

Quoted, C. W. Eichling, 
161. 
Elmer D. Smith, 118, 

134- 

E. G. Lodeman, 159. 
George E. Stone, 159. 
J. J. Willis, 32. 
Professor Bentley, 139. 

Raising Plants from seed, 
141. 



200 



INDEX 



Red spider, 148 
Reflexed type, 181. 

Packing the, loi. 
Remedy for stem rot, 157. 
Repot, When to, 46. 
Results of excessive feed- 
ing, 31- 
Rooting cuttings, 35, 38. 
Rust, 153.^ 

Preventing, 155. 

Scale of points for bush 
plants, 62. 
seedlings, 145. 
Screen, Pompons as a, 168. 
Season for selling chrysan- 
themums, 113. 
on bud formation, In- 
fluence of, 92. 
Sections, Guide to the, 99. 
Seedlings, Judging, 144. 

Scale of points for, 145. 
Seed plants, 137. 
Seed, Raising plants from, 

141. 
Selecting blooms for exhi- 
bition, 98. 
varieties, 182. 
Selling the chrysanthemum, 
Season for, 113. 
to commission men, 123. 
young plants, 113. 
September, Work for, 176. 
Shading, 53. 

the cutting house, 36. 
Shipping blooms. Packages 
for, [24. 
plants by freight, 61. 
oy mail, 117. 
Single stem plants, Vari- 
eties for, 187. 



type, 179. 

varieties, 183, 
Sizes of pots used, 48. 
Small bush plants, varie- 
ties for, 185. 
Smith, Elmer D,, quoted, 

118, 134. 
Soda, Nitrate of, 73. 
Soil for potting, 44. 

Importance of texture of, 

25. 
Preparing the, 25, 27. 
The best chrysanthe- 
mum, 26. 
South, feeding plants in the 
163. 
protecting plants in the, 
163. 
Space for planting, 8. 
Sports, 142. 
Spraying, Damping caused 

by, 94. 
Staging blooms, 106. 
Standards and large bushes, 
Varieties for, 186. 
Frame for, 59. 
Grafting for, 39. 
Training for, 12. 
Treatment for, 51. 
Stem rot. Remedy for, 157. 
Stock, Chrysanthemum 
frutescens as a, 42.. 
plants, Care of, 32. 
Stone, George E., quoted, 

153. 
Storage room for blooms, 

24. 
Storing blooms, 97. 
Suckers, 86. 
Support, for bush plants, 

A, 13. 



INDEX 



20I 



Supporting blooms, Method 

of, 84. 
Sulphate of ammonia, 74. 
Sulphur, 158. 
Supplying lime, 69. 
Syringing, 83. 

Taking the bud, 55, 91. 
Tarnished plant bug, 150. 
Temperature for rooting 

cuttings, 35. 
Terminal buds, 9, 11, 90. 

Crown vs., 89. 
Texture of the soil. Im- 
portance of, 25. 
Thrips, 149. 
Time for applying food, 

87. 
Tobacco stems, 147. 
Training bush plants, 49. 
Transporting bush plants, 

60. 
Treatment for mildew, 159. 

standards, 51. 
Tying the blooms, 55. 
Type, anemone, 180. 

hairy, 181. 

incurved, 181. 

Japanese, 182. 

pompon, 181. 

reflexed, 181. 

single, 179. 



Value of chrysanthemums 
for decoration, 129. 



plants and flowers in 
the U. S., 112. 

Varieties, Burning of, 95. 

Early, large - flowering, 
192. for commercial cut 
flowers, 190. 

Crossing, 137. 

decoration, 188. 

exhibition cut blooms, 
188. 

large bushes and stand- 
ards, 186. 

single-stem plants, 187 

small bush plants, 185. 

new, producing, 134. 

selecting, 182. 

single, 183. 
Ventilators in the green- 
house, 18. 

Warm weather, Packing 
young plants in, 116. 

Whale oil soap, 149, 151. 

When to poUenize, 140. 
repot, 46. 

Willis, J. J., quoted, 32. 

Winter protection, 15. 

Wood ashes, 71. 

Work for January, 173; 
February, 173; March, 
174; April, 174; May, 
175; June, 175; July, 
175; August, 176; Sep- 
tember, 176; October, 
177; November, 177; 
December, 178. 



w 



I Id 1911 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



;UL la iyii 



